my 16.3 bay gelding has started losing hair
we have just bought him a feild rug to keep him dry in the rain and he wasnt losing hair before what could it be
Answers:
By loosing his hair I assume you mean that his skin is becoming visible.
Depending on where the hair is coming off, it could be because the blanket is rubbing. If so, then you should get a chestie or a sleasie which would prevent it from rubbing. They are made out of very stretchy material that fits close to the skin. They are made to prevent blanket rubs.
However, if the skin where he is loosing his hair is bumpy or scabby, it could be a more serious problem and you should call the vet.
Maybe the rug is rubbing, it would depend where he is losing hair.
Maybe he is rubbing certain areas, have you checked for mites etc.
it is probably the rug rubbing, u mite want to get a looser 1
By the sound of it its most likely rug rubbing..its possible it might be mites or fleas.
could be a number of things, natural shedding comes to mind first? also blanket rubs, rubbing on a fence, tree or wall, or a skin disease. Talk to a vet or experianced horse person and tell them exactly when and how much hair is coming off (also if it is coming off in chunks or just individually) If its on the shoulders, consider a shoulder guard (or a bra as everyone calls it)for under the blanket or if its on the haunches, you need a larger size blanket.
he is probably rubbing on somethin also call your vet because it could be parasites or worms
you say you just bought him a rug for when it rains, he is probally hotter with it on and therefore loosing hair to adjust. Thats if you mean generally all over, not his mane and tail. my horses are out and not rugged and thay are loosing some hair when being brushed at the moment, prob just loosing his summer coat, was he rugged before.
rugging up will stop the horses growing such a thick coat for winter cos the rug keeps them warm so if its to hot thay will loose hair too. Its difficult with the weather being so up and down, sunny one minute then rain.
depends what you mean by losing hair. it is perfectly normal for them to be changing coat this time of year. so as long as he is not getting bald patches, it is nothing to worry about. He is just sheading his summer coat and growing his winter coat.
If he is getting bald patches it could be a number of things. the rug ribbing, a reaction to something his rug has been washed/treated with or Rubbing tack. If the skin apears inflamed, itchy or flaky i would get the vet to check him as it could be a skin condition.
Your horse's blanket could be rubbing or scratching him. If its too small or too big, or even just right this could happen. Check the stitching on the INSIDE of the blanket.
Hope this helps.
It could be a number of things, shedding his summer coat, natural shedding, disease, sweet itch, scratching to get relief from bites, nits, rain rot, have your vet check him out and get the proper treatment. Good luck.
It could be a thing called sweet itch.or flea.s.
well the weather is changing so it could be him looseing his coat, also it could be were its rubbing or maybe even mites/lice or even worms. i would get a vet to have a look at him. hope that helps.
Is he loosing hair in a certain area like its being rubbed by the blanket? If he is shedding all over when you groom him, what he is doing is shedding his summer coat allowing his winter to coat to come in.
He might be shedding ,this is normal if its getting hotter or cooler .
is his rug to small
get softer rug
Sunday, August 2, 2009
My Horse is Limping, What do i do if today is sunday, and tomorrow is a holiday.?
Romeo is suddenly limping and i checked for signs of injury but i couldn't find anything. He stands on it but he rests it when he's standing. I know I have to call the vet, but tommorow is a holiday (Labor Day) and their not going to be open. My question is, what do I do?
Answers:
If you think it's very bad you can try to find and after hours vet. It'll cost you extra but if it's an emergency, then it has to be done.
It was one year ago today that my dog got hit by a car. I had to find a vet that would meet me at the animal hospital on the Sunday before Labor Day. I paid dearly for it. But I couldn't wait until Tuesday to take my injured dog to the vet.
try to call the answering service to see if the doctor is on call. and if not just keep a close eye on your horse.
He could have a small pebble in his hoof, or he could have obtained a stone bruise. If there is swelling, call the Vet, regardless of it being a Holiday. They do answer emergencies calls.
:S Have you checked the shoe? and around the "frog" he might have picked up a rock. Have you checked some of the horse boards on the internet? maybe one of them can help.
heres one:
http://www.manureslinger.proboards54.com.
In later details you said you'd rapped the leg from knee to hoof. Good. I'd also suggest checking for heat in the shoulder, leg, and hoof, including the frog. If there is no obvious injury your horse may have just pulled something and might get better on it's own. Calling a vet is a good idea in any event. Just don't get that bandage you've put on too tight, and watch for swelling that might make it too tight. Another thing you can do if you have access to it ( especially if there is any heat in the leg) is to spray cold water from a water hose onto the area. Sort of a cold water massage. Just be care full as some horses can be skittish. Hope you have someone around to help you. Good luck.
Go to the vet ot what leg is it im a vet wel a vet in training im well not realy my couson is but who cares i know alote cuase of hetr so what leg is it
Try to self diagnose the injury. Is there heat anywhere on his legs or feet? On the leg it is probably a strain (by a tendon), or blunt trauma. Cold hose the injury and give 2 grams of bute. In the hoof, it may be an abscess or stone bruise. soak in epsom salts and bute him. Good luck
your horse may have a ston bruse or somthing
Well. It could be a stone bruise. A stone could have gotten in the hoof. I would also sugest a GOOD farrier. They might be able to help you better if it's the foot. But if it's the leg, I'd call the vet. Just don't ride or make your horse work untill you can get a vet to your house. And if the vet says to get a farrier, get one quick!
Call your vet, if they don't answer, then you can call another vet to see if they are on call.
Answers:
If you think it's very bad you can try to find and after hours vet. It'll cost you extra but if it's an emergency, then it has to be done.
It was one year ago today that my dog got hit by a car. I had to find a vet that would meet me at the animal hospital on the Sunday before Labor Day. I paid dearly for it. But I couldn't wait until Tuesday to take my injured dog to the vet.
try to call the answering service to see if the doctor is on call. and if not just keep a close eye on your horse.
He could have a small pebble in his hoof, or he could have obtained a stone bruise. If there is swelling, call the Vet, regardless of it being a Holiday. They do answer emergencies calls.
:S Have you checked the shoe? and around the "frog" he might have picked up a rock. Have you checked some of the horse boards on the internet? maybe one of them can help.
heres one:
http://www.manureslinger.proboards54.com.
In later details you said you'd rapped the leg from knee to hoof. Good. I'd also suggest checking for heat in the shoulder, leg, and hoof, including the frog. If there is no obvious injury your horse may have just pulled something and might get better on it's own. Calling a vet is a good idea in any event. Just don't get that bandage you've put on too tight, and watch for swelling that might make it too tight. Another thing you can do if you have access to it ( especially if there is any heat in the leg) is to spray cold water from a water hose onto the area. Sort of a cold water massage. Just be care full as some horses can be skittish. Hope you have someone around to help you. Good luck.
Go to the vet ot what leg is it im a vet wel a vet in training im well not realy my couson is but who cares i know alote cuase of hetr so what leg is it
Try to self diagnose the injury. Is there heat anywhere on his legs or feet? On the leg it is probably a strain (by a tendon), or blunt trauma. Cold hose the injury and give 2 grams of bute. In the hoof, it may be an abscess or stone bruise. soak in epsom salts and bute him. Good luck
your horse may have a ston bruse or somthing
Well. It could be a stone bruise. A stone could have gotten in the hoof. I would also sugest a GOOD farrier. They might be able to help you better if it's the foot. But if it's the leg, I'd call the vet. Just don't ride or make your horse work untill you can get a vet to your house. And if the vet says to get a farrier, get one quick!
Call your vet, if they don't answer, then you can call another vet to see if they are on call.
My horse is kinda fat and i ride him every day for 2 hours. What else should i do to help him lose weight?
Answers:
Cut back on his hay and grain. Also when you ride him are you just walking? If so you should start to lope him more to get him sweating. Also a good trail ride with hills is also a good workout.
do u feed him feed?.. if so then stop . alotta people think horses need feed to survive.. they don't as long as ther on paster or eating hay and staying a good weight on it then feed isn't always a good snack.. try not feeding him feed
Being ridden like this is really good for him. What is he eating? Maybe you could cut him back some with his hay or grain?
I think that it depends on what kind of horse it is. I think that if you are really concerned you should go to the vet and check up that he or she is still at a normal weight. If it is above average, that doesn't mean that you need to be concerned about. remember every horse is different. But if you are still concerned about it talk to the vet about putting him on a healthier diet. if the vet say that it is okay, than I would buy healthier food. Good luck. P.S. What is your horses name?
lower his grain and hay that might help but before you do that call a vet to see how much you should lower it or if a different feed would help. my horses are skinny so i know to up there hay cuz that will help them gain so you get why to lower feed. also just to tell you some horses dont lose weight by exercise (mine doesnt!)
Feed him maybe only 1 or 2 flakes everytime you go feed him. Feed him only twice a day once at 7am and then at 4 pm he'll lose some wait that way. If he gets to thin go back to his regular diet and switch his diets on and off.
it depends on the horses breed. do not stop feeding him altogether, but cut down a few pounds of feed. if he is out in a pasture, bring him in earlier. don't leave him out too long, even though the grass and plants out there is roughage, it still fills him up but doesn't make him fat. just cut down on the amount of food he gets. don't stop feeding him. he does need food to survive. if cutting down the food doesn't help after a long period of time, then call the vet, or get your trainer to look at him. i don't know what else to suggest but keep an eye on him and don't let him get too fat, or too skinny. keep him on a regular exercise pattern and give him new experiences. different trail rides, new horses, people, etc.
are you riding him this much so he will lose the weight? if so then its not working. you might want to do a fecal on him, which means take a sample of his poo to the vet and check for parasites and worms, its not that expensive. worms can cause bloating. also check on the anmount of fat thats in his feed. most horses who are stalled at night can have about 4-10 percent fat. what is his age and breed. how long has he been this chunky for? have you always ridden him a lot or just when you notuced he was fat. if hes not use to this much work and is overweight the extra exercise could hurt his joints. if you are trully worried you can just call your vet and ask questions.
feed him less?
cut his grain and if hes geting alphalpha cut it a flack or turn him pou with other horses for a few hours a day
ask your vet about an effctive diet for him.
i wouldnt cut back on the grain, its probably a hay belly. does he have a roll? if so, try swiching him to bails and only give him 1-2 flakes. but if not, you could try to bran him more often so it can help clear him out.
my horse is herd bound, any help?
my horse has been with my other 2 mares, and he had started running away from me because the other horse ran away.
but now ive put him in a different pasture, (it doesnt have any space in between the fenc, just one fence is seperating the pastures, i have 2 pastures) and he was trotting around and neighing because he couldnt see the other horses.
hes an dressage horse so he cant do that when im riding him.
he has done it once, because i always ride with my sister (she rides one of the mares my horse stayed with, and i dont really want to ride with her though but i dont have a choice really.
we are trying to get Beau (my horse) to board at a barn so that he doesnt go crazy like that, but while hes at home, any suggestions?
o ya, and the pony walks up to beaus fence and stands with him so it doesnt really help much that hes in a different pasture
Answers:
I had the same problem with my jumper. The only thing that really worked was to establish your dominance from the ground first, do lots of ground manners and lunging and get the horse to pay attention to you, not his surroundings. Give a specific verbal cue such as "Here". If he ignores you, make him change directions ALOT. Once he is giving you his attention on cue work on the same thing under saddle. If he starts to neigh or dance/prance give the verbal cue, I also try to give the horse a second command at the same time, i.e. a sudden turn or increase in gait, to get the horses attention.
Clinton Anderson has some really good techniques for ground work and lunging.
Good Luck.
Get tracking chips implanted by the vet.
Did you know, since horses are herd animals, they are very distressed when not with at least one other horse? It is cruel to keep a horse isolated from other horses, as it puts them in a constant state of anxiety. Try to find another horse or horses you can put him with that do not teach him bad habits as soon as possible. Till then, he will probably be agitated as you have described. Personally, I would let him back with the others just for now, and deal with the running away some other way. Have you tried cajoling him with treats when you go out in the pasture to catch him? It is just not fair to his well-being to keep him separated.
For right now, it's probably a good idea to keep the other horse's in view when you're working with him -that way, he won't feel as though he's completely alone. You'll need to work with him a lot.you just have to make him understand that he won't die without the other horses around him. Eventually, he'll learn to accept that; he has to understand when he has to work and when he can be with the other horses - just don't shut him off from the other's completely! You could be creating more problems for yourself!
Horses naturally are herd animals. Take the horse to a park and exercise him away from other horses.
Oh, this the problem I hate most with my mares. Separating them at home is just going to cause everyone stress. I usually bring every one in or put the others into the other pasture to get my mare. Then rode her by herself, she got used to it but she still doesn't like it. Boarding will probably help with the riding it does for me as long as I'm consistent. If you don't ride enough he'll just get more and more attached to his new friends. Try to be patient and consistent when your riding all he should worry about is working, if he doesn't get a response from them he'll start to focus on you. Good luck
You need to tack this horse up and ride away from home on him every day. Take him out alone and make hiim go until you are ready to go back.,
Then when you get back un tack and groom and feed him and if you do this all the time he will learn that nothing bad happens when he goes out and that he always comes home and gets to eat.
It takes time and work with a herd bound horse.
Mine will tack up and walk off and not look back. It is the one who gets left home who throws a fit here.
This is the same routine I used with our mare when she first came here and now she is not herd bound at all. She walks right out.
Keep at it a nd good luck.
Okay lets start from the beginning. How long has he been doing this? How long have you had horse experience for? A Herd bound animal is known to be one of the worst things to try and break. Safety first!! Have you brought him to a show with out your mares around in the trailer as well? Or have they always been around when you go? Do you ever bring him down the road by himself, without this mares? Give me the exact situation on when, where and how bad he is when this "Barn Sour "horse stars to act up!
Let me know and we can work this out! Sarah
Well. I have show horses and if they get herd bound I do a couple of things. First I trail ride them by their lonesome without the horse's buddies. I also trailer them to a friend's indoor arena and ride there.
Really when you take him to a show, he should be alright. Out of sight, out of mind. I think because he can hear and see them it gets him upset. When he is off your property he should be good to go. He will not have anyone to call out to.
Good luck showing! We are in region 2! :)
Do you have a friend who has a horse or a donkey? Horses need to be around other animals, maybe even a goat might suffice. I know a horse whose "girlfriend" died, and he wouldn't eat and he just freaked out. my trainer put another horse in with him and he bonded with that horse and everything was fine.
but now ive put him in a different pasture, (it doesnt have any space in between the fenc, just one fence is seperating the pastures, i have 2 pastures) and he was trotting around and neighing because he couldnt see the other horses.
hes an dressage horse so he cant do that when im riding him.
he has done it once, because i always ride with my sister (she rides one of the mares my horse stayed with, and i dont really want to ride with her though but i dont have a choice really.
we are trying to get Beau (my horse) to board at a barn so that he doesnt go crazy like that, but while hes at home, any suggestions?
o ya, and the pony walks up to beaus fence and stands with him so it doesnt really help much that hes in a different pasture
Answers:
I had the same problem with my jumper. The only thing that really worked was to establish your dominance from the ground first, do lots of ground manners and lunging and get the horse to pay attention to you, not his surroundings. Give a specific verbal cue such as "Here". If he ignores you, make him change directions ALOT. Once he is giving you his attention on cue work on the same thing under saddle. If he starts to neigh or dance/prance give the verbal cue, I also try to give the horse a second command at the same time, i.e. a sudden turn or increase in gait, to get the horses attention.
Clinton Anderson has some really good techniques for ground work and lunging.
Good Luck.
Get tracking chips implanted by the vet.
Did you know, since horses are herd animals, they are very distressed when not with at least one other horse? It is cruel to keep a horse isolated from other horses, as it puts them in a constant state of anxiety. Try to find another horse or horses you can put him with that do not teach him bad habits as soon as possible. Till then, he will probably be agitated as you have described. Personally, I would let him back with the others just for now, and deal with the running away some other way. Have you tried cajoling him with treats when you go out in the pasture to catch him? It is just not fair to his well-being to keep him separated.
For right now, it's probably a good idea to keep the other horse's in view when you're working with him -that way, he won't feel as though he's completely alone. You'll need to work with him a lot.you just have to make him understand that he won't die without the other horses around him. Eventually, he'll learn to accept that; he has to understand when he has to work and when he can be with the other horses - just don't shut him off from the other's completely! You could be creating more problems for yourself!
Horses naturally are herd animals. Take the horse to a park and exercise him away from other horses.
Oh, this the problem I hate most with my mares. Separating them at home is just going to cause everyone stress. I usually bring every one in or put the others into the other pasture to get my mare. Then rode her by herself, she got used to it but she still doesn't like it. Boarding will probably help with the riding it does for me as long as I'm consistent. If you don't ride enough he'll just get more and more attached to his new friends. Try to be patient and consistent when your riding all he should worry about is working, if he doesn't get a response from them he'll start to focus on you. Good luck
You need to tack this horse up and ride away from home on him every day. Take him out alone and make hiim go until you are ready to go back.,
Then when you get back un tack and groom and feed him and if you do this all the time he will learn that nothing bad happens when he goes out and that he always comes home and gets to eat.
It takes time and work with a herd bound horse.
Mine will tack up and walk off and not look back. It is the one who gets left home who throws a fit here.
This is the same routine I used with our mare when she first came here and now she is not herd bound at all. She walks right out.
Keep at it a nd good luck.
Okay lets start from the beginning. How long has he been doing this? How long have you had horse experience for? A Herd bound animal is known to be one of the worst things to try and break. Safety first!! Have you brought him to a show with out your mares around in the trailer as well? Or have they always been around when you go? Do you ever bring him down the road by himself, without this mares? Give me the exact situation on when, where and how bad he is when this "Barn Sour "horse stars to act up!
Let me know and we can work this out! Sarah
Well. I have show horses and if they get herd bound I do a couple of things. First I trail ride them by their lonesome without the horse's buddies. I also trailer them to a friend's indoor arena and ride there.
Really when you take him to a show, he should be alright. Out of sight, out of mind. I think because he can hear and see them it gets him upset. When he is off your property he should be good to go. He will not have anyone to call out to.
Good luck showing! We are in region 2! :)
Do you have a friend who has a horse or a donkey? Horses need to be around other animals, maybe even a goat might suffice. I know a horse whose "girlfriend" died, and he wouldn't eat and he just freaked out. my trainer put another horse in with him and he bonded with that horse and everything was fine.
My horse is heavy in his bit.,?
When I ride my horse he likes to pull his head alot but it is only in his training bit, when we work in his show bit he is a Angel. I dont know if it is his training bit or it is just a habit he always does for that certain one?
Answers:
Circles, circles, circles! I know its frustrating and takes forever, but its easy to get into a fight with a stiff-necked horse. I do not believe in hard mouths, only stiff necks.
Rather than fight, circle him. He can brace against both reins, but not against one. By doing this he will learn to give.
If this is not effective, you should definitely have his teeth checked by your vet or an equine dentist. They may have sharp edges and cause him some pain. This would also make sense with one bit and not the other, as they sit differently in the mouth. For any type of riding that requires him to set his head, he should have a "bit seat" put in, which is a rounding of the back molars to create a comfortable space for the bit to rest.
maybe he doesnt like that bit. my horse did that with his bit untill i changed his bit, then he was fine.
if he does that with the training bit then you should try another one or use a bosel or hackamore. i use these two types for riding and i also use them for training and they work just fine. i change the ones i use everyday so she does not get to hard in her mouth. his mouth is getting used to the bit and when you got him he probably had a hard mouth from the other owners before. it will take some time to get his mouth soft again for riding. you might want to use your show bit if he does good in that one and not use the training bit because it also could be the taste of it. my horse didn't like the bit i was using for a while and foundout it was the taste of it. good luck
try this- when he starts to pull his head around, give a short sharp jerk on the reins and say now. Dont haul on his mouth, just give a snap so that it gets hsi attention. If that doesnt work, then try going to a slightly sharper bit. Then switch between the two bits at home about every 2-3 weeks depending on how much he is being ridden. This will keep his attention on his work and not playing around.
I would think it is his bit. We had a horse that was supposedly used to a curb bit, but he would always throw his head, so we changed to a snaffle and that helped. Some breeds have a lower roof of the mouth than others and that could have something to do with it.
The bit has nothing to do with it!
either he wants to stretch or you need to be more active with your legs. just tap him a bit when he pulls on the reins to keep his head up more.
Answers:
Circles, circles, circles! I know its frustrating and takes forever, but its easy to get into a fight with a stiff-necked horse. I do not believe in hard mouths, only stiff necks.
Rather than fight, circle him. He can brace against both reins, but not against one. By doing this he will learn to give.
If this is not effective, you should definitely have his teeth checked by your vet or an equine dentist. They may have sharp edges and cause him some pain. This would also make sense with one bit and not the other, as they sit differently in the mouth. For any type of riding that requires him to set his head, he should have a "bit seat" put in, which is a rounding of the back molars to create a comfortable space for the bit to rest.
maybe he doesnt like that bit. my horse did that with his bit untill i changed his bit, then he was fine.
if he does that with the training bit then you should try another one or use a bosel or hackamore. i use these two types for riding and i also use them for training and they work just fine. i change the ones i use everyday so she does not get to hard in her mouth. his mouth is getting used to the bit and when you got him he probably had a hard mouth from the other owners before. it will take some time to get his mouth soft again for riding. you might want to use your show bit if he does good in that one and not use the training bit because it also could be the taste of it. my horse didn't like the bit i was using for a while and foundout it was the taste of it. good luck
try this- when he starts to pull his head around, give a short sharp jerk on the reins and say now. Dont haul on his mouth, just give a snap so that it gets hsi attention. If that doesnt work, then try going to a slightly sharper bit. Then switch between the two bits at home about every 2-3 weeks depending on how much he is being ridden. This will keep his attention on his work and not playing around.
I would think it is his bit. We had a horse that was supposedly used to a curb bit, but he would always throw his head, so we changed to a snaffle and that helped. Some breeds have a lower roof of the mouth than others and that could have something to do with it.
The bit has nothing to do with it!
either he wants to stretch or you need to be more active with your legs. just tap him a bit when he pulls on the reins to keep his head up more.
My horse is getting worse and worse about me catching her?
I start to walk up to her and she runs away. Like she's saying " oh I don't feel like going for a ride right now so I'm going to be a brat and run away". She is not in pain when I ride her and I brush and spend time with her alot. No dumb answers like "give her more treats or something". Real answers. Thanks.
Answers:
I would try working her in the roundpen. She seems to have some respect issues. Make her work, and teach her that she has to go when and where you tell her.
Start by working her in one direction, (it works best if you work her to the point she wants to stop), step in front of her shoulder, and say "Whoa!". If she stops, let her relax a minute, but as soon as she takes her attention off of you put her back to work. If she doesn't stop and just turns the other direction, make her work even harder the other way. She'll eventually learn that things are much easier if she stops and gives you her undivided attention.
After she gets the idea of whoa, you can step towards her a little, then step back. That will get her coming towards you. She'll eventuallly walk towards you when she stops. You'll be surprised how easily she'll pick it all up, and how it will help everything from catching her to general ground manners.
Do you only catch her when you are planning on riding? Or do you have to catch her when you feed too? If you are only attempting to catch her when you want to ride, then she's obviously made the connection with you in the field=I have to work. Try catching her, and just grooming her for awhile.
Hope that helps some!
Hmm maybe she's pregnant?
Maybe you've been eating too many bon-bons.
Don't ride her every time you walk up to catch her. just pet one her and show her that you don't want to ride her every time you go to catch her.
Do you have a rifle?
I don't know what your skill level as a rider is, but maybe when you ride you're too rough on her, or maybe you don't pay attention when she's trying to send you signals. The relationship between horse and rider is a very special, almost symbiotic one. If you're ignoring her input, or forcing your will over hers constantly, she may be fed-up with you.
maybe she wants a mate.
dude, giving her treats is not a dumb answer. if she's a normal horse she'll come trotting to you the next day.
worked on my boy in a second.
but i agree with those who said don't catch her every time. chill with her in the field or just take her out, give her some petting and treats, and put her back.
It may be possible she hasn't acepted you as the leader. Maybe doing some round pen bonding up.. you know like the monty roberts. Once you establish that, making it a very pleasurable experience for her to be caught, (carrots, friendly pats etc.). I had the same problem with my mare when I'd let her out in the pasture, and I finally did the the bonding up in the round pen, it took her about 45 minutes for her to acept me as the boss, but it was worth it in the end, I never had a problem catching her in the field again, and as an extra bonus I was well stocked with treats for her, to praise her for being catchable. Good Luck with your horse.
Have you had a vet come out to look at her back. There are also horse masseuses too. I use one for my Thoroughbred. He is 16.1 and I am only 140 but after a hard day of riding he still will get a sore back here and there. If she is not balanced she could be twisting or bending incorrectly which may be causing some discomfort. Some horses if they have had even one painful day of riding can start in with little aversion game.not so funny to us though. Check your equipment really good for any odd peices that could be causing discomfort too. After ruling out any kind of pain inducing issue, internal or from the equipment you can start riding her again. In the meantime you can still work on catching her by . calling her, when she gets to you give her a carrot or apple (whatever she likes) clip on her lead and halter walk her around and then release her. Randomly alternate what she has to do when you have her: a quick lead around the pasture, a brushing, an automatic release, ect. You dont what her to continue to anticipate why you want her to come. The consistent becomes she will get something out of it. I have had a horse that really didnt want to be bothered with anything including being brushed.what a weird horse huh?.anyway this was the only method that worked for her. You can also play a game of chase with her in the pasture.she is 'chasing' you of course. Horses are curious by nature and if you go out and stand in the middle of the pasture they will come up eventually. When she gets to you, with your back turned, reach out pet her once and then walk away. She will start to follow more quickly. These always worked for my guys including my crab-apple mare.
I dealt with a gelding that did the same thing. Make a point of bringing her in 2-3X a week when you are not riding. Give her some grain and attention then turn her back out. It might take a couple weeks but that should do the trick.
I agree with the round pen work so I won;t reiterate what everyone else has already said. I highly recommend John Lyons Round Pen Reasoning technique.
I also know you said no treats but one thing that works with my horses is to find a hard candy that they like, peppermints, butterscotch, etc. Everytime you give her one rattle the celophane (wrapper) a lot first and as you are opening it. After she gets used to that she can be within ear hsot and will come running for her candy.
I have 6 and all of them will mow me down in the pasture when they hear those wrappers. I never have problems catching any of them and 2 of them are rescues that had been severely abused and had definite trust issues. Between the round pen reasoning, lots of patience, lots of love, and a piece of candy now and then, they no longer have any trust issues and follow me everywhere.
Sounds like you are pretty much on the right track. Sometimes it just takes a little suggestion of something new to get the wheels turning.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
Answers:
I would try working her in the roundpen. She seems to have some respect issues. Make her work, and teach her that she has to go when and where you tell her.
Start by working her in one direction, (it works best if you work her to the point she wants to stop), step in front of her shoulder, and say "Whoa!". If she stops, let her relax a minute, but as soon as she takes her attention off of you put her back to work. If she doesn't stop and just turns the other direction, make her work even harder the other way. She'll eventually learn that things are much easier if she stops and gives you her undivided attention.
After she gets the idea of whoa, you can step towards her a little, then step back. That will get her coming towards you. She'll eventuallly walk towards you when she stops. You'll be surprised how easily she'll pick it all up, and how it will help everything from catching her to general ground manners.
Do you only catch her when you are planning on riding? Or do you have to catch her when you feed too? If you are only attempting to catch her when you want to ride, then she's obviously made the connection with you in the field=I have to work. Try catching her, and just grooming her for awhile.
Hope that helps some!
Hmm maybe she's pregnant?
Maybe you've been eating too many bon-bons.
Don't ride her every time you walk up to catch her. just pet one her and show her that you don't want to ride her every time you go to catch her.
Do you have a rifle?
I don't know what your skill level as a rider is, but maybe when you ride you're too rough on her, or maybe you don't pay attention when she's trying to send you signals. The relationship between horse and rider is a very special, almost symbiotic one. If you're ignoring her input, or forcing your will over hers constantly, she may be fed-up with you.
maybe she wants a mate.
dude, giving her treats is not a dumb answer. if she's a normal horse she'll come trotting to you the next day.
worked on my boy in a second.
but i agree with those who said don't catch her every time. chill with her in the field or just take her out, give her some petting and treats, and put her back.
It may be possible she hasn't acepted you as the leader. Maybe doing some round pen bonding up.. you know like the monty roberts. Once you establish that, making it a very pleasurable experience for her to be caught, (carrots, friendly pats etc.). I had the same problem with my mare when I'd let her out in the pasture, and I finally did the the bonding up in the round pen, it took her about 45 minutes for her to acept me as the boss, but it was worth it in the end, I never had a problem catching her in the field again, and as an extra bonus I was well stocked with treats for her, to praise her for being catchable. Good Luck with your horse.
Have you had a vet come out to look at her back. There are also horse masseuses too. I use one for my Thoroughbred. He is 16.1 and I am only 140 but after a hard day of riding he still will get a sore back here and there. If she is not balanced she could be twisting or bending incorrectly which may be causing some discomfort. Some horses if they have had even one painful day of riding can start in with little aversion game.not so funny to us though. Check your equipment really good for any odd peices that could be causing discomfort too. After ruling out any kind of pain inducing issue, internal or from the equipment you can start riding her again. In the meantime you can still work on catching her by . calling her, when she gets to you give her a carrot or apple (whatever she likes) clip on her lead and halter walk her around and then release her. Randomly alternate what she has to do when you have her: a quick lead around the pasture, a brushing, an automatic release, ect. You dont what her to continue to anticipate why you want her to come. The consistent becomes she will get something out of it. I have had a horse that really didnt want to be bothered with anything including being brushed.what a weird horse huh?.anyway this was the only method that worked for her. You can also play a game of chase with her in the pasture.she is 'chasing' you of course. Horses are curious by nature and if you go out and stand in the middle of the pasture they will come up eventually. When she gets to you, with your back turned, reach out pet her once and then walk away. She will start to follow more quickly. These always worked for my guys including my crab-apple mare.
I dealt with a gelding that did the same thing. Make a point of bringing her in 2-3X a week when you are not riding. Give her some grain and attention then turn her back out. It might take a couple weeks but that should do the trick.
I agree with the round pen work so I won;t reiterate what everyone else has already said. I highly recommend John Lyons Round Pen Reasoning technique.
I also know you said no treats but one thing that works with my horses is to find a hard candy that they like, peppermints, butterscotch, etc. Everytime you give her one rattle the celophane (wrapper) a lot first and as you are opening it. After she gets used to that she can be within ear hsot and will come running for her candy.
I have 6 and all of them will mow me down in the pasture when they hear those wrappers. I never have problems catching any of them and 2 of them are rescues that had been severely abused and had definite trust issues. Between the round pen reasoning, lots of patience, lots of love, and a piece of candy now and then, they no longer have any trust issues and follow me everywhere.
Sounds like you are pretty much on the right track. Sometimes it just takes a little suggestion of something new to get the wheels turning.
Hope this helps! Good luck!
My horse is being transported from Ireland. How soon after his arrival can i ride him?
He is arriving him the morning and i was hoping to be able to take him on a gentle hack in the afternoon. is this acceptable or should he have a longer period of rest? He is coming from Ireland and then has a three hour journey from Holyhead to my home.
Answers:
No - dont ride him today - give him a bit of a chance to settle in - any journey for a horse - even in a box is traumatic for them - so just let him have the day to adjust.
Welcome him into his new home - spend time grooming him and giving him treats and generally just getting to know each other - then tomorrow morning there will be no problems riding him out.
I wish you both all the luck and hope this is the start of a successful relationship! xx
Give him a couple of days,and lots of attention and treats !
I would play this by ear, it will depend on how he feels. If you can turn him out for a couple of hours as soon as he arrives, it may be ok to take him for a gentle hack later. He will no doubt want to stretch his legs after being cooped up in a lorry. Bear in mind his journey may be stressful for him and he will be arriving at a strange place. If he's obviously high and stressed, I would leave him a day or two to settle into his new environment before riding. It may be an idea to hack with a companion horse the first time you ride out. Good luck.
Oops - I misread your question, I originally though his total journey time was 3 hours. Now I've read it correctly, I would definitely give him at least a couple of days to settle in with as much turn out time as possible.
We've had horses for some time. Whenever we moved a horse or bought one we always gave them 1 week to let down. They were stalled and we kept an eye on them to make sure everything was alright with them and if they were calm we turned out to pasture for a nice run, roll or whatever they wanted. You can gauge your horse, if he's used to being transported then I guess it would be fine, but I would definitely wait at least one day to get a good look at him and make sure he's doing ok.
I'd say pamper him for a few days. Being shipped is a hard time for a horse ;)
A few days .Basic studies by my opinion animals after being trasported need attention,rest and food .It only takes 7-8 days to do this patience is a very well dash served with shimmer sauce lol.鈽?
I swore you said your nose was being transported. :|
I'd give him about a week to settle in and get use to being around you and the new surrounding. Give him as much attention as possible so he'll be calm after the ride.
. DON'T BE CRUEL . GIVE HIM FEW DAYS REST . A WEEK MINIMUM . ITS STRESS FROM TRAVELING WHICH YOU DON'T SEE .. IT IS NOT THE CAR YOU ARE IMPORTING LOVE ..
no, if it were me, i wouldn't be riding my horse for at least over a week, he needs to rest after his journey, and i know if any horse comes here, they have to spend some weeks in quarantine.. i don't know much about your country, but here its for 3 months. and besides that, even if you don't have to have him in this. he still needs to settle down in his new environment before you ride him. otherwise he may start to suffer from stress..
give him few days.
No, never mind what you want! You have to be sensible about this and do whats best for him.
He's being driven to the boat, then a couple of hours on the boat rocking around and keeping his balance. Then another three hours in the box to your place.
He's going to be tired and disorientated. Put him on a deep bed in a loose box and give him a drink with some electrolytes.
Then an hour later give him a warm mash, and settle him with a haynet.
For the next couple of days check him over for ringworm and see your vet for advice about warts, they can be a problem on the boats. Let him have some turnout and see how fit he is.
Concentrate on grooming him and teaching him stable manners for the next few days, give him a chance to find his way around and settle in.
And no jumping til you've done enough fitness training.
As soon as he sobers up
Let him rest for a few days, then if he seems happy enough you should be able to ride him.
Make sure you give him lots of attention!
Will you should give him about a week to adjust then give it about to get to know you.
I would say give him time to get acclimated to the climate and the time change, a few good days of regular feedings and turn out should give him ample time to adjust to the changes. Take it slow, lunge him and watch him for the first day you intend to ride, see how he re-acts to the surroundings and changes. If he still seems unsure and edgy, then turn him out for a few more days with you just lunging him in the mornings to get his balance and reassurance reading to do his best for you.I hope this helps
Has this horse been shown and traveled around some? If so a day might be all is needed w/some turnout and then the next day you could ride him lightly. Not sure how long the journey is in total but if this horse is used to being hauled around for shows then he should be fine by the next morning. If this is his first time and is an extended journey for him then I would wait to see how he adjusts. Nothing is straight forward when it comes to our equines.its all about the situation and that particular horse so you will just have to wait and see and use your best judgement. Good luck w/your new friend.
You need to give him rest. He will need it. Good Hay and water in way for his travels once he gets home. I would give a transported horse atleast 24 hours rest to get acclimated to his surroundings.
Let him rest about 3 days, get the vet to check him/her over then try riding him if the vet says that he/she is healthy. You will proboly have trouble loading him into trailers now. he has been moved from his home where he was most likly happy, and to this new place where he dose not know any thing. he will assume that he is leaving is home again forever when you put him in a trailer. just let him sniff and walk around a little, also lead him around your property so he can sniff at things.
I imported a Friesian stallion from Holland earlier this year. I know it's a bit further but I still didn't do anything with him for a couple of weeks. I just long reined him and lunged him and walked him out in hand for a pick of grass, but he certainly didn't come out of his stable for a couple of days. This is what the vendor advised me. They export horses for a living. The day after I got him home, there was a Friesian who suffered stress colic and ended up being put down so please be careful. You do not say if this is a new horse or one you have had in Ireland and are bringing it home. If the former, I would just get to know him.
Good luck, enjoy your horse.
I would give him a couples days rest. He is very tired from his long ride and will be too tired to want to go for a hack. When he does arrive you may want to walk him around or lunge him for about 10 mins before you put him away in his stall so that he can have a chance to stretch his legs and muscles after being cramped in a horse trailer for so long.
Answers:
No - dont ride him today - give him a bit of a chance to settle in - any journey for a horse - even in a box is traumatic for them - so just let him have the day to adjust.
Welcome him into his new home - spend time grooming him and giving him treats and generally just getting to know each other - then tomorrow morning there will be no problems riding him out.
I wish you both all the luck and hope this is the start of a successful relationship! xx
Give him a couple of days,and lots of attention and treats !
I would play this by ear, it will depend on how he feels. If you can turn him out for a couple of hours as soon as he arrives, it may be ok to take him for a gentle hack later. He will no doubt want to stretch his legs after being cooped up in a lorry. Bear in mind his journey may be stressful for him and he will be arriving at a strange place. If he's obviously high and stressed, I would leave him a day or two to settle into his new environment before riding. It may be an idea to hack with a companion horse the first time you ride out. Good luck.
Oops - I misread your question, I originally though his total journey time was 3 hours. Now I've read it correctly, I would definitely give him at least a couple of days to settle in with as much turn out time as possible.
We've had horses for some time. Whenever we moved a horse or bought one we always gave them 1 week to let down. They were stalled and we kept an eye on them to make sure everything was alright with them and if they were calm we turned out to pasture for a nice run, roll or whatever they wanted. You can gauge your horse, if he's used to being transported then I guess it would be fine, but I would definitely wait at least one day to get a good look at him and make sure he's doing ok.
I'd say pamper him for a few days. Being shipped is a hard time for a horse ;)
A few days .Basic studies by my opinion animals after being trasported need attention,rest and food .It only takes 7-8 days to do this patience is a very well dash served with shimmer sauce lol.鈽?
I swore you said your nose was being transported. :|
I'd give him about a week to settle in and get use to being around you and the new surrounding. Give him as much attention as possible so he'll be calm after the ride.
. DON'T BE CRUEL . GIVE HIM FEW DAYS REST . A WEEK MINIMUM . ITS STRESS FROM TRAVELING WHICH YOU DON'T SEE .. IT IS NOT THE CAR YOU ARE IMPORTING LOVE ..
no, if it were me, i wouldn't be riding my horse for at least over a week, he needs to rest after his journey, and i know if any horse comes here, they have to spend some weeks in quarantine.. i don't know much about your country, but here its for 3 months. and besides that, even if you don't have to have him in this. he still needs to settle down in his new environment before you ride him. otherwise he may start to suffer from stress..
give him few days.
No, never mind what you want! You have to be sensible about this and do whats best for him.
He's being driven to the boat, then a couple of hours on the boat rocking around and keeping his balance. Then another three hours in the box to your place.
He's going to be tired and disorientated. Put him on a deep bed in a loose box and give him a drink with some electrolytes.
Then an hour later give him a warm mash, and settle him with a haynet.
For the next couple of days check him over for ringworm and see your vet for advice about warts, they can be a problem on the boats. Let him have some turnout and see how fit he is.
Concentrate on grooming him and teaching him stable manners for the next few days, give him a chance to find his way around and settle in.
And no jumping til you've done enough fitness training.
As soon as he sobers up
Let him rest for a few days, then if he seems happy enough you should be able to ride him.
Make sure you give him lots of attention!
Will you should give him about a week to adjust then give it about to get to know you.
I would say give him time to get acclimated to the climate and the time change, a few good days of regular feedings and turn out should give him ample time to adjust to the changes. Take it slow, lunge him and watch him for the first day you intend to ride, see how he re-acts to the surroundings and changes. If he still seems unsure and edgy, then turn him out for a few more days with you just lunging him in the mornings to get his balance and reassurance reading to do his best for you.I hope this helps
Has this horse been shown and traveled around some? If so a day might be all is needed w/some turnout and then the next day you could ride him lightly. Not sure how long the journey is in total but if this horse is used to being hauled around for shows then he should be fine by the next morning. If this is his first time and is an extended journey for him then I would wait to see how he adjusts. Nothing is straight forward when it comes to our equines.its all about the situation and that particular horse so you will just have to wait and see and use your best judgement. Good luck w/your new friend.
You need to give him rest. He will need it. Good Hay and water in way for his travels once he gets home. I would give a transported horse atleast 24 hours rest to get acclimated to his surroundings.
Let him rest about 3 days, get the vet to check him/her over then try riding him if the vet says that he/she is healthy. You will proboly have trouble loading him into trailers now. he has been moved from his home where he was most likly happy, and to this new place where he dose not know any thing. he will assume that he is leaving is home again forever when you put him in a trailer. just let him sniff and walk around a little, also lead him around your property so he can sniff at things.
I imported a Friesian stallion from Holland earlier this year. I know it's a bit further but I still didn't do anything with him for a couple of weeks. I just long reined him and lunged him and walked him out in hand for a pick of grass, but he certainly didn't come out of his stable for a couple of days. This is what the vendor advised me. They export horses for a living. The day after I got him home, there was a Friesian who suffered stress colic and ended up being put down so please be careful. You do not say if this is a new horse or one you have had in Ireland and are bringing it home. If the former, I would just get to know him.
Good luck, enjoy your horse.
I would give him a couples days rest. He is very tired from his long ride and will be too tired to want to go for a hack. When he does arrive you may want to walk him around or lunge him for about 10 mins before you put him away in his stall so that he can have a chance to stretch his legs and muscles after being cramped in a horse trailer for so long.
my horse is always cribbing how can i stop him?
Answers:
they make sprays, but they don't really work, and they make a collar that you can put on him, that will now allow him to crib. If he is doing it out of bordom, then find something for him to do, something to occupy his time, milk jugs on strings tied to things work, stall balls, 55 gall barrells on their sides work, get him a friend if he is lonley, goats make good horse buddies. I would talk to someone about getting him a collar though.
here is a link that shows a picture of one,
http://store.kbcint.com/browse.cfm/4,785.
no
You need to talk to a vet. It involves a lot of things, stress, bordom, things like that.
They make a special collar for horses that crib. It works well on some horses, and not as well on others. You can also put a cage on your horse's halter. You horse can still eat %26 drink, and some horses will crib on the cage. Some horses can be pursuaded to stop this annoying behavior, and some are going to do it no matter what you do.
What is cribbing?
the only resolution that i have heard is to get a cribbing collar other than that i dont think there is anything else you can do
Check with your local feed/tack retailer for a liquid suspension called "Bitterlicks". OR, email the link below for all your questions concerning cribbing. Good luck!
bitterlicks@dittosinc.com
A cribbing collar. There are also sprays to protect your surfaces - they taste bad, so the horse won't touch them. Another thing to try is a supplement. There are several different brands. You can shop around online or at tack stores to find the best one.
The good news is that there are many products and methods to use to attempt to stop a horse from cribbing. The bad news, is that there is no "sure-fire" way to stop the behavior. You can try to prevent her form cribbing, however, there are downfalls to using each of the products or methods, and none of them work on all horses. So, I'd suggest you experiment with each, to see if any work. If any single product or method does not work, you might want to "mix-and-match" to find something that may work.
There are many products that can be used for horses that crib. Some are straps that are placed around the horse's throat area, these are called "cribbing straps". Cribbing straps can be found at most tack stores. The strap does not hurt the horse, and does not interfere with eating or breathing. What it is designed to do is put pressure on the horse's throat when he/she begins to crib. For some horses, this is all that is needed to stop cribbing, as the pressure on their throat becomes annoying to them.
However, I have seen a low success rate with the use of a cribbing strap alone. Many horses are very tolerant to the pressure on their throat and will continue cribbing anyway. So, you can also try a product that is applied to the surfaces that the horse uses to crib. These are usually provided as sprays or clear paints that are non-toxic to the horse, and they taste horrible. So, when the horse puts his/her mouth on (for example) his grain bin to crib, he will dislike the taste and stop cribbing.
There is also a downfall to using this product and that is that you most likely will have to re-apply it to the surfaces often, as it may wear off. You may not even be able to use a product like this if you keep the horse at a boarding farm, depending on the farm's rules. And, it will only stop the horse from cribbing in the areas that you apply it. So, if you take your horse to another stall or area, she may begin cribbing again.
Another method to stop your horse from cribbing is to teach her that it is unpleasant. As of right now, she gets some type of pleasure from it, and that's why she continues to do it. However, to train your horse to stop cribbing is almost impossible (unless you live in the pasture or stall with your horse) since it would involve you being there 24x7 to reprimand the horse every time he tries to crib. If you are not there 24x7 to reprimand the horse consistently, do not reprimand the horse at all.there is no point. It is VERY time consuming, if not impossible.
To teach her to stop cribbing, you must be able to react to her cribbing EVERY time she tries to do it. If you react to her cribbing, by for example, flicking her muzzle with your finger, she learns that when she opens her mouth to crib, she experiences an unpleasant feeling. However, if you do this for 5 minutes while standing with her in her stall, and then walk away and come back the next day, she only learns that cribbing is unpleasant when you are present. So, if you don't have the time to stay with your horse 24x7 until he learns that cribbing is completely unacceptable, then it would be useless to try "training" him to stop cribbing!
I hope this helps clarify the options that are out there, and I hope one of these products or methods work for you and your horse!
OK, from a horse owner i know this problem is not rare and to fix it is different for each horse. I have a horse that doe sthis too, and i have a collar on him, which wokrs most of the time, just a basic collar, you can buy extravagant ones, but they can look ferochous and deadly, just go to your feed suplier or saddlery and ask for a collar, and pick one for your price range.
I also made this herbal remody, which i saw work really well, so long as it doesn't rain, i'll go into that in a sec.But..Its a bordem thing, they get bored and they only thing to do it crib! So try to find toys such as treat balls and even soccer balls. Carrots hanging from the roof, apples with molasses in them.
OK, the herbal thing, i used heaps of chillies chopped up thinnly and boiled to get the hottness to become a pulp. Then add heaps of pepper, and garlic, things that will tase yuk and make the horse think otherwise. Just spray on the areas he's cribbing, or, make it into a think paste and paint onto the fence posts and around the stable walls. After he trys to crib, he wont go back, repeat when he starts to crib again, and sooner or lter, he'll stop!
well I have a horse that won't stop cribbing no matter what but here are some things we tried..hot sauce, cribbing collar, if you stall him/her up get him/her a toy to play with.thats all i can think of..Good Luck!
You can stop cribbing!! There are products that you can purchase to apply to the wood that has a very bad taste to it, although I haven't found any of those to work. There is a product called Quit which you add to your horses feed and this actually works. Give it a try, as long as your horse isn't cribbing out of boardum, it worked for me.
yes i know the answer i help people with there horses every day mostly behavor probs and the best way is to buy a herbal feed it relaxise the horse and also stops box walking ect just look on net for herbal feed sups for horses in ur area ao u dont pay over the top prices and look under stress relievers its all the same just diffrent companys good luck hope u resolve this soon xxxxxxxxxx
Mircale Collar. It works, my gelding cribs when its off, doesn't crib when its on. But you have to leave it on 24/7. Also its untreated leather so when it gets wet it shrinks as it dries. Oh - and it leaves sores if you don't check it often. Other from that, nothing else works that well.
get a cribbing collasr and if that doesnt work then get some cribbing supplements
Turn him outside as much as possible. Don't keep him put up in a stall very much at all. You can try a "Miracle Collar" which will prevent him from cribbing when he has to be in a stall.
my horse HATES dogs!!?
my horse was bit by a dog wen he was a baby, since he has hated dogs (wich is understandable), he chases them and tries to stomp them, or waits till they are close and them kicks them, any dog, anywere, its not so much a problem when he is in the pasture, but it becomes bad when im riding him in the neighborhood, i can control him, but it becomes a hassle to always have to fight it (there are alot of dogs, and the only way to get to the trails is to pass them). i have tried to let him see that not all dogs are bad by trying to let him get to know our old shepperd, i held him while he sniffed her for awyle but then he bit her.she ran and he took off after her, we have tried it a couple of times, but it never worked out.
Answers:
Its in a horses nature to hate dogs. Horses are prey animals and dogs are predators. When a horse is confronted it chooses from 2 reactions Flight (run away) or fight. Since your horse was bitten/attacked by a dog, your problem is compounded because your horse is choosing to fight. Since you have a problem with him going after dogs when your riding you need to do something to take his mind off the dogs and focus his attention on you where it belongs. Try circling him or asking for a side pass to keep him focused.
I am assuming the dogs you are worried about are running loose. If they are you can call your local animal control office and ask about a leash law and file a complaint about loose dogs.
If this doesn't work you may want to consider riding else where. Safety first.
Good Luck
Sounds like a problem. But Ur just going to have to adapt to not you know riding ur horse by a bunch of dogs. sorry and good luck
Try hiring an animal behaviorist who specializes in horses to break this cycle.
i dont own a horse.but maybe u could try letting a dog sleep in the barn with your horse for a few weeks %26 see if they bond.
if not,i have no idea,guess theres' nothing u can do.
that's sad to hear. You'd think even an animal is willing to learn and give other animals a second chance but I guess nature won't allow it. Good luck with however you're going to handle it.
Horses will instinctively have a mistrust of dogs, getting bit clinched it. You could try and keep her around dogs to get used to them but then she will likely only trust those dogs she knows. Personally, I would keep the dogs away from her. You can carry a whip and snap it at the dogs to keep them clear-notice I didn't say strike the dogs.
Also you should be aware that a kick from a horse could be enough to kill a dog or scramble his brains. Had a dog kicked once, he was out cold for awhile, afterward he seemed fine. He went totally beserk a few weeks later and it was proven he suffered brain damage from the kick. I won't go into details but the attack was bad news and we had no warning he would react this way.
Hi,
Just keep on doing what your'e doing.Re: letting the horse sniff the dog. Soon he will get the hang of dogs and they will be just like pals.
-annai
Perhaps dog-horse relationships don't always work. I once had a dog that routinely bit horses' legs. A couple the horses' had to be put down because of it so perhaps it is good that your horse is defensive around dogs.
However, I know that dog-horse relationships can work because I've often seen people use both for hunting and many farmers have dogs that will follow horses. Perhaps just getting your horse used to being around good dogs. Either that or let the horse and the dog have it out in an area where the dog can get under a fence or something if its going to stomped. You might also try blinders while passing dogs but I 'm not sure that would help.
you have a horse omg i love horses
Answers:
Its in a horses nature to hate dogs. Horses are prey animals and dogs are predators. When a horse is confronted it chooses from 2 reactions Flight (run away) or fight. Since your horse was bitten/attacked by a dog, your problem is compounded because your horse is choosing to fight. Since you have a problem with him going after dogs when your riding you need to do something to take his mind off the dogs and focus his attention on you where it belongs. Try circling him or asking for a side pass to keep him focused.
I am assuming the dogs you are worried about are running loose. If they are you can call your local animal control office and ask about a leash law and file a complaint about loose dogs.
If this doesn't work you may want to consider riding else where. Safety first.
Good Luck
Sounds like a problem. But Ur just going to have to adapt to not you know riding ur horse by a bunch of dogs. sorry and good luck
Try hiring an animal behaviorist who specializes in horses to break this cycle.
i dont own a horse.but maybe u could try letting a dog sleep in the barn with your horse for a few weeks %26 see if they bond.
if not,i have no idea,guess theres' nothing u can do.
that's sad to hear. You'd think even an animal is willing to learn and give other animals a second chance but I guess nature won't allow it. Good luck with however you're going to handle it.
Horses will instinctively have a mistrust of dogs, getting bit clinched it. You could try and keep her around dogs to get used to them but then she will likely only trust those dogs she knows. Personally, I would keep the dogs away from her. You can carry a whip and snap it at the dogs to keep them clear-notice I didn't say strike the dogs.
Also you should be aware that a kick from a horse could be enough to kill a dog or scramble his brains. Had a dog kicked once, he was out cold for awhile, afterward he seemed fine. He went totally beserk a few weeks later and it was proven he suffered brain damage from the kick. I won't go into details but the attack was bad news and we had no warning he would react this way.
Hi,
Just keep on doing what your'e doing.Re: letting the horse sniff the dog. Soon he will get the hang of dogs and they will be just like pals.
-annai
Perhaps dog-horse relationships don't always work. I once had a dog that routinely bit horses' legs. A couple the horses' had to be put down because of it so perhaps it is good that your horse is defensive around dogs.
However, I know that dog-horse relationships can work because I've often seen people use both for hunting and many farmers have dogs that will follow horses. Perhaps just getting your horse used to being around good dogs. Either that or let the horse and the dog have it out in an area where the dog can get under a fence or something if its going to stomped. You might also try blinders while passing dogs but I 'm not sure that would help.
you have a horse omg i love horses
my horse has sarcoids has anyone used sarc- ex by global herbs ?
are these herbs effective against sarcoids. would appreciate your experiences of this.
Answers:
Camerosa Oitment is the want you want to try.
I have tried this in the past and it works not instant takes a few weeks depending on the size.
Herbs are not proven to work. If you read the fine print you'll see it's labelled as a "dietary supplement" or "homepathic remedy". Would you buy a drug that had zero studies showing it works?
If it were me I'd talk to my vet. He/she will know what natural remedies, if any, will help the horse.
Ive known several horses with sarcoids and I know that depending on their location they can be unsightly and present problems riding so I do sympathise. However, in a lot of cases I know that they present no problem and the owner has enjoyed much use and time with their best friend!
I have not known any effective herbal treatment in the cases that I have seen although I have not heard of the one you mention.
The main treatment - if you can call it that - for the sarcoids is for the removal of them - please do not attempt yourself - a vet will undertake this for you. However in some cases they will grow back again and I guess it is a balance for you to decide if the treatment is totally necessary.. good luck!
Would not recommend surgical removal, sacrcoids go very deep into the skin and if all the sarcoid is not removed, they grown back far worse. Can't remember what some friends tried, it was herbal, but expensive and didn't work. Check with your vet, there is research going on and I can't remember where I saw the article, it was a couple of years ago, and they might have made further progress to the treatment of sarcoids..hope you find something that works for your horse.
The horse I used to have had bad sarcoids on her inner legs and the only remedy was a lotion from the vet which, in effect, burned them off. I dont think herbal medicines which have no proof that they work would be recommended by a vet for sarcoids. They can be very painful and your horse deserves to have the right treatment whatever the cost so go to a vet.
Answers:
Camerosa Oitment is the want you want to try.
I have tried this in the past and it works not instant takes a few weeks depending on the size.
Herbs are not proven to work. If you read the fine print you'll see it's labelled as a "dietary supplement" or "homepathic remedy". Would you buy a drug that had zero studies showing it works?
If it were me I'd talk to my vet. He/she will know what natural remedies, if any, will help the horse.
Ive known several horses with sarcoids and I know that depending on their location they can be unsightly and present problems riding so I do sympathise. However, in a lot of cases I know that they present no problem and the owner has enjoyed much use and time with their best friend!
I have not known any effective herbal treatment in the cases that I have seen although I have not heard of the one you mention.
The main treatment - if you can call it that - for the sarcoids is for the removal of them - please do not attempt yourself - a vet will undertake this for you. However in some cases they will grow back again and I guess it is a balance for you to decide if the treatment is totally necessary.. good luck!
Would not recommend surgical removal, sacrcoids go very deep into the skin and if all the sarcoid is not removed, they grown back far worse. Can't remember what some friends tried, it was herbal, but expensive and didn't work. Check with your vet, there is research going on and I can't remember where I saw the article, it was a couple of years ago, and they might have made further progress to the treatment of sarcoids..hope you find something that works for your horse.
The horse I used to have had bad sarcoids on her inner legs and the only remedy was a lotion from the vet which, in effect, burned them off. I dont think herbal medicines which have no proof that they work would be recommended by a vet for sarcoids. They can be very painful and your horse deserves to have the right treatment whatever the cost so go to a vet.
My horse has pigeon fever. He's not abscessing - nor getting better. What can I do for him?
Answers:
Can you see where the abcess is? If so, use hot compreses a couple times a day to draw it out and slathering on "icthamol" ointment (it is black and smelly) this will also help to bring it to a head like a big zit . Eventually it will burst, just keep it clean and let it drain. usually Mares get it on their chest and teets. I would not have the vet lance them, it is a hassle. just let nature take its course.Oh for the pain a couple tabs of bute should ease the pain Ya know "giant horse asprin"
Awww poor horse.
I'm not really good with things like this but all I can say is consult and vet or someone in that profession.
Hope that helps and good luck.
I hope ur horse gets well soon.
I think you should tell the horse vet closest to you the problem. Non of my horses have ever had pigeon fever, but my grandma's did. We had to tell the vet and they gave us some medicine. I really hope he/she gets better.
my horse has only got 1 ball the other one hasn't dropped can any one tell me how to get it to drop.?
Answers:
it depends on his age, if he is young(under11/2) it may have just not dropped yet. sometimes it will after a little time, if he is older than 11/2 - 2 most likley it will not drop and needs to see a vet and they will do it surgically, there are different reasons as to why, it is not an uncommon thing , sometimes when the vet gets ready to cut him the other one will be right there and other times he will need to go father in to get to it..it is more costly if they have to go farther in to retrive it vs the standard castration.
Stick your hand in his
Stand directly behind the horse and pull the one that has descended VERY hard and fast!
(Im kidding)
suck real hard lol
boy oh boy I could have fun with this one..ahem, ok, you can't MAKE it drop.some never do, some do on their own.time and a good Vet check should do the trick.
Take it you mean his testicles:-)
Well if it is an un-descended testicle it could cause him problems-maybe you should just take him to the vets. You never know what could have caused it. You messing with his bits could cause more damage.
you mean only one testicle? the second one does not always descend. I don't think it's a problem.
Its hung. How old is your horse? Sometimes it won't come down. This isn't a problem unless you intend to breed, and then I wouldn't because its not a good trait to have in your bloodline.
However, when you have him gelded you have to make sure the vet gets the other testicle too. That other one can produce testosterone and he will act like a full male, so you don't want to leave it up there. Also it can become cancerous if you leave it.
From personal experience - the hung testicle is either going to be easy to find or hard to find. My gelding's was hard to find and the surgery was expensive, about $700.00. (Naturally)
hmm good question.try and grab it and give it a pull but dont stand directly behind him.stand at the side. p.s. you may notice a deeper grunt in your horse if this is successful lol.
blow in its bum
What age is your horse, are you planning on getting it gelded??
Some times it takes a little longer for both testicles to drop, if you call your vet out 2 check that every thing is ok 'down there', they will be able to tell you if there is a problem with why the other testicle hasnt dropped, or they will just tell you that it is grand and just give it more time! hope this helps!!
it won't drop and may turn cancerous. Get him gelded.
don't know if its the same, but my neighbour has a staffy that only one ball dropped,the vet said it needs operating on or it could cause cancer,so I'd get it seen to by a vet just to be sure.
Feed him lots of lager
send it to the local equine hospital
Dont attempt this yourself!
If your horse has balls (even just one showing)he is, or he is on his way to becoming a Stallion. you dont say how old he is, but leave this to your vet,. As in a Rig (both balls hidden) the testosterone is still charging around and any fiddling with his Gonads may well cause you serious injury!
this is called cryptorchidism (failure of descent of the testicle.
i would suggest that you speak to a vet to see about getting him castrated(gelded).
there is an increased incidence of some of the testicular cancers in cryptorchid animals so it is probably worth checking out
if you intend to keep the horse as a stallion it shouldnt be a problem and infact it shouldnt be a problem if you want to get him gelded as the vet should be able t remove it from inside and as long as he does so it will be fine, you dont want to end yourself up with a rig.
To tell you the truth, if the horse is young it will drop naturally, horses sometimes have them down and sometimes up, dont worry its normal
It's normal for only one testicle to drop, you can't MAKE the other one drop and I wouldn't advise trying it either!
My horse has no hair in his mane, its thin and hardly there.?
He also has thin skin.
Answers:
You might find some answers here:
http://www.thehorse.com/topicsearch/defa.
Hope that's helpful!
If you haven't already, go to your local vet. If it isn't a normal irritation, it could be serious.
so you are saying that he is mainly bald!
could be his breed.. appaloosas have very thin manes and tails..
thin skin?? or thin hair on his body??
it could be food issues - he needs suppliments?
if the hair loss is spotty you should have a vet check him
could be ur not feeding him enough or he has a disease. take him to those horse doctors.
Well, he isn't sickly or anything, is he? I have, what you would call, a "traditional" Appaloosa - he has hardly any mane and tail, but he's about as hardy as they come being 16 hands high and very well built. Appaloosa's are probably one of the most unique breed of horse out there, because no two are ever really the same. If you feel that your horse is in danger in some way, shape, or form, than you should probably call a vet to ease your worry; but thin skin, mane and tail isn't something I'd worry about!
Need more info, write me if you want.breed of horse, age, allergies, how long the hair has been gone, color of horse, area it is kept in, with or without other horses in the same pen, type of shavings (if any) used, diet.. etc.
I would call a vet and ask him.
The first thing your vet is going to check after allergies is going to be thyroid problems. I agree that you need to give more info..like what is the overall body condition of the horse? what breed? age? feed? worming schedule?
Answers:
You might find some answers here:
http://www.thehorse.com/topicsearch/defa.
Hope that's helpful!
If you haven't already, go to your local vet. If it isn't a normal irritation, it could be serious.
so you are saying that he is mainly bald!
could be his breed.. appaloosas have very thin manes and tails..
thin skin?? or thin hair on his body??
it could be food issues - he needs suppliments?
if the hair loss is spotty you should have a vet check him
could be ur not feeding him enough or he has a disease. take him to those horse doctors.
Well, he isn't sickly or anything, is he? I have, what you would call, a "traditional" Appaloosa - he has hardly any mane and tail, but he's about as hardy as they come being 16 hands high and very well built. Appaloosa's are probably one of the most unique breed of horse out there, because no two are ever really the same. If you feel that your horse is in danger in some way, shape, or form, than you should probably call a vet to ease your worry; but thin skin, mane and tail isn't something I'd worry about!
Need more info, write me if you want.breed of horse, age, allergies, how long the hair has been gone, color of horse, area it is kept in, with or without other horses in the same pen, type of shavings (if any) used, diet.. etc.
I would call a vet and ask him.
The first thing your vet is going to check after allergies is going to be thyroid problems. I agree that you need to give more info..like what is the overall body condition of the horse? what breed? age? feed? worming schedule?
My horse has loose teeth so he needs to eat his hay from the floor..?
..however he keeps dragging it round his stable and pooing on it! need a large tub to put his hay in that is sturdy enough not to keep getting dragged round his stable. I have tried hay racks, bags, etc but these are not easy from him to eat from (his front teeth are loose so he can't eat from a haynet). I wanted a wall mounted manger/trough but the only ones i can find are either too small as they are for feed/water only, or they are too expensive; the haybar is approx 拢60 and i don't think he would like putting his head in one anyway! Any ideas where i can get something large and strong enough??
Answers:
One of mine did that too, an expensive hobby!!
I fixed the problem by getting a peice of chipboard and sectioning off the corner of the stable with it.
A low peice, only about a foot and a half high with a gap at the bottom so you can clean the corner regulary,
This way most of the hay is kept in the corner, there are no handles for him to get his hooves into (another trick mine learnt)
and no buckets to get squashed or kicked about.
He still eats from the floor and the hay is loose so he does not have to pul it out of a net.
Tried the vets at all.
How about visiting your local GARDEN centre, I know it sounds a strange thing to do, BUT they have lots of heavy weight tubs in all different sorts of shapes and sizes, there meant for flowers and the such like, but maybe you could find something there that will help and not be too expensive.alternatively why not drill and screw a plastic tub to the wall at floor level. Also if your not already doing this extra calcium in his food could help with his teeth.
a horse i used to look after had a similar problem. he used an old ceramic sink which we had bolted to his wall, we used it for his hay as well as his feed. alternatively, just put smaller amounts of hay on the floor so he doesn`t waste it
use a blender
A heavy duty plastic potting tub might be the go if you want something to attach to the wall. Another thing I've used (for feeding from the floor) is an old tyre with a round bit of tin bolted onto one side. They're surprisingly heavy, and not all that easy for the horse to throw around.
Is feeding him chaff rather than hay a possibility? Are his teeth bad enough that he might be having problems with hay no matter how you're offering it, and that's why it's being strewn about the place? (Plus, given that he's dragging it around his stable now, is he likely to pull his hay out of a raised feeder and do the same thing?)
The problem you are going to have is that even if you put it in a tub, he will still take it out of there and drag it all around the stable. I would love to feed my horse on the ground, but I have the same problem. My friend uses a tub and stands it in a tyre, you know the middle bit. That way the tub stays put and can't be moved around the stable. Maybe that is worth a try?
I would get a large tub from a garden centre or the likes (the ones we use as skip buckets) and fill those with hay.
You can get clips to attach water buckets to the wall so the same clips could be used to secure the tub?? Also I am sure that I have seen something like a metal grill that you can buy from tack shops (or on line shops) that you can put in a tub to stop them pulling too much hay out in one go.
Good luck (my horse also does the same with his hay if it is loose so I have to use nets.)
get the dentist out to see him and ask them.
ttfn ;o)
How old is this horse? Is it thin? i've cared for several of my beloved equines thru their last years. When i see any sort of teeth problems (dropping wads of half-chewed food or grain) i not only have the vet out to float the teeth regularly--if the teeth are loose, the animal is in pain and often, having them floatedwill not only smooth sharp edges, but will probly knock out the loose ones. I feed a diet of Nutrina Senior horse pelleted feed for nutrition, and ground beet pulp- not shredded- (soaked with water) for roughage. a feedbag is often helpful, so the horse doesn't loose the feed on the floor. Don't leave a source of water available to the horse while he is wearing the feed bag- they can actually drown in some bags if they dip their nose into water.
this diet kept my horses shiney and in good flesh for all their days.
get your horses teeth looked at by a expert, also eating off the floor is a good thing, most horses will spread there food around and theres not much you can do about it. but i would defantly get the horses teeth looked at.
Answers:
One of mine did that too, an expensive hobby!!
I fixed the problem by getting a peice of chipboard and sectioning off the corner of the stable with it.
A low peice, only about a foot and a half high with a gap at the bottom so you can clean the corner regulary,
This way most of the hay is kept in the corner, there are no handles for him to get his hooves into (another trick mine learnt)
and no buckets to get squashed or kicked about.
He still eats from the floor and the hay is loose so he does not have to pul it out of a net.
Tried the vets at all.
How about visiting your local GARDEN centre, I know it sounds a strange thing to do, BUT they have lots of heavy weight tubs in all different sorts of shapes and sizes, there meant for flowers and the such like, but maybe you could find something there that will help and not be too expensive.alternatively why not drill and screw a plastic tub to the wall at floor level. Also if your not already doing this extra calcium in his food could help with his teeth.
a horse i used to look after had a similar problem. he used an old ceramic sink which we had bolted to his wall, we used it for his hay as well as his feed. alternatively, just put smaller amounts of hay on the floor so he doesn`t waste it
use a blender
A heavy duty plastic potting tub might be the go if you want something to attach to the wall. Another thing I've used (for feeding from the floor) is an old tyre with a round bit of tin bolted onto one side. They're surprisingly heavy, and not all that easy for the horse to throw around.
Is feeding him chaff rather than hay a possibility? Are his teeth bad enough that he might be having problems with hay no matter how you're offering it, and that's why it's being strewn about the place? (Plus, given that he's dragging it around his stable now, is he likely to pull his hay out of a raised feeder and do the same thing?)
The problem you are going to have is that even if you put it in a tub, he will still take it out of there and drag it all around the stable. I would love to feed my horse on the ground, but I have the same problem. My friend uses a tub and stands it in a tyre, you know the middle bit. That way the tub stays put and can't be moved around the stable. Maybe that is worth a try?
I would get a large tub from a garden centre or the likes (the ones we use as skip buckets) and fill those with hay.
You can get clips to attach water buckets to the wall so the same clips could be used to secure the tub?? Also I am sure that I have seen something like a metal grill that you can buy from tack shops (or on line shops) that you can put in a tub to stop them pulling too much hay out in one go.
Good luck (my horse also does the same with his hay if it is loose so I have to use nets.)
get the dentist out to see him and ask them.
ttfn ;o)
How old is this horse? Is it thin? i've cared for several of my beloved equines thru their last years. When i see any sort of teeth problems (dropping wads of half-chewed food or grain) i not only have the vet out to float the teeth regularly--if the teeth are loose, the animal is in pain and often, having them floatedwill not only smooth sharp edges, but will probly knock out the loose ones. I feed a diet of Nutrina Senior horse pelleted feed for nutrition, and ground beet pulp- not shredded- (soaked with water) for roughage. a feedbag is often helpful, so the horse doesn't loose the feed on the floor. Don't leave a source of water available to the horse while he is wearing the feed bag- they can actually drown in some bags if they dip their nose into water.
this diet kept my horses shiney and in good flesh for all their days.
get your horses teeth looked at by a expert, also eating off the floor is a good thing, most horses will spread there food around and theres not much you can do about it. but i would defantly get the horses teeth looked at.
My horse has extreme abdominal bloating,?
urinary and bowel funtions are normal . no fever and appetite is normal.The abdomen is hard and tender. this an unaltered stud in
10 years old .in normally good health.Any sensible input appreciated
Answers:
Hard and tender is a very bad sign. Call the vet immediately.
get off the computer and call the vet
sounds like a trip to the vets in order. Colic?
I think a call to the vet is in order when you describe any symptom as extreme.
Worse case- Could have a twisted gut, higher up and bowels would still move for a while. This is life threatening- call the vet immediately.
Are you sure its not a hay belly or grass belly. Are you sure its not one of those things that its been growing slowly and now all of a sudden you look at him and say, "Damn! You fat!" A onset of colic would be very noticeable. There is no hiding that! Symptoms are always with colic and never goes undetected. Like you said, he's eating well, pooping, acting normal then I believe your horse got fat so slowly you didn't notice till now. I just said that about one of my mares the other night. "Damn!, too much hay!! You'd be surprised how many people don't know a normal touch of a horse. There bellys are never soft or spongy feeling. Your boy is fine! Get on and ride em'
If you have clover where the horse is kept, he may be eating too much clover and hay together. It can cause bloating and may eventually lead to colic.
it is probably hay belly, they get reall real big bellies, not fat anywhere else, mostly in preparation for winter, or if they are being fed only hay.
ride him normally, and it will thin down over the winter. :)
Did the vet trip about two weeks ago for almost the same thing, he didn't need oiling but he did need more or less the air let out of his stomach. My stud sucks air pretty bad if he doesnt have his cribbing collar on and had a stomach ache from it.
10 years old .in normally good health.Any sensible input appreciated
Answers:
Hard and tender is a very bad sign. Call the vet immediately.
get off the computer and call the vet
sounds like a trip to the vets in order. Colic?
I think a call to the vet is in order when you describe any symptom as extreme.
Worse case- Could have a twisted gut, higher up and bowels would still move for a while. This is life threatening- call the vet immediately.
Are you sure its not a hay belly or grass belly. Are you sure its not one of those things that its been growing slowly and now all of a sudden you look at him and say, "Damn! You fat!" A onset of colic would be very noticeable. There is no hiding that! Symptoms are always with colic and never goes undetected. Like you said, he's eating well, pooping, acting normal then I believe your horse got fat so slowly you didn't notice till now. I just said that about one of my mares the other night. "Damn!, too much hay!! You'd be surprised how many people don't know a normal touch of a horse. There bellys are never soft or spongy feeling. Your boy is fine! Get on and ride em'
If you have clover where the horse is kept, he may be eating too much clover and hay together. It can cause bloating and may eventually lead to colic.
it is probably hay belly, they get reall real big bellies, not fat anywhere else, mostly in preparation for winter, or if they are being fed only hay.
ride him normally, and it will thin down over the winter. :)
Did the vet trip about two weeks ago for almost the same thing, he didn't need oiling but he did need more or less the air let out of his stomach. My stud sucks air pretty bad if he doesnt have his cribbing collar on and had a stomach ache from it.
My horse has developed a granuloma type lump on the wall of one eye what is it? my vet is unsure..?
It is on the wall of one eye and started about 3 months ago as a couple of small whte ulcer like blobs and since then has slightly more than doubled in size. It has a raised surface rather like the white of a cauliflower. Some parts seem to be going a bit pink and the wall of the eye looks sore. he does get a discharge from the eye but apart from that he doesn't seem bothered. We have wormed him and applied some antibiotic drops but nothing changed. My vet thinks it is possible it could be related to a sarcoid but is unsure . I'm very worried about it and don't know what to do. I'm afraid he will go blind or lose his eye.
Answers:
I was going to suggest sarcoids before reading your question in full.
My welsh cob/tb cross gelding had a large lump of sarcoids on his sheath and inner thigh. They never caused him any trouble but I was always careful about touching them with my bare hands as humans can catch them too. They are warts really. However, by an eye is a bit different. I have no experience of this, but was wondering whether - under anaesthetic - they could be frozen off like human warts. However, one has to be so careful around the eyes. If your own vet does not know, get a second opinion. If you are in the UK, perhaps you could contact the veterinary college at Potters Bar.
Get a second opinion from a different vet.
Having never seen anything like that in a horse Im afraid I have no clue - but I agree with Fran - get a second vets opinion - and if he doesnt know bring in a third.
In the event he does go blind or lose the eye - its not a big deal - one of the best jumping ponies I ever owned only had one eye - it never bothered her in the slightest!
I hope he gets better soon
not seeing it i cant tell you for sure, could be Equine Recurrent Uveitis? or maybe Neoplasia of the Eye.i would get a differnt vet to have a look, dont worrie it dosent sound like sarcoids but you never know, they dont normaly get it on there eye also if it was that your vet would defently know there not hard to mistake.
have a look at this site i found this site wile doing equine first aid.
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index..
You need to check to see if it is summer sore.
Summer sore is where flies lay their eggs in the eye under the skin tissue in the eye.
Able to treat it, the vet will surgically remove the eggs by placing the horse on sedation. Then treat with medications.
My gelding had summer sore twice since he won't keep his fly mask on.
Your vet should be running test and having a second opinion from another vet as well.
I'm a vet. It is impossible to make a diagnosis unless you see such a lesion. I'm not sure from your description if this lesion is on the eyeball or the eyelid or what size it is. Sarcoid was the first thing that came to my mind but it could be lots of other things.
In the case of unusual lesions like this one I would want further tests to be done - smears, biopsies etc.
If your vet cant make a diagnosis and you are still concerned ask for a referral. If it is on the eyeball ask your vet for a referral to a veterinary opthalmologist. If it is on the skin/eyelid you need a veterinary dermatologist. There are plenty of specialists all over the UK - in the vet schools, private practice etc.
If you have any trouble finding one contact the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons or check out the website www.rcvs.org.uk
Answers:
I was going to suggest sarcoids before reading your question in full.
My welsh cob/tb cross gelding had a large lump of sarcoids on his sheath and inner thigh. They never caused him any trouble but I was always careful about touching them with my bare hands as humans can catch them too. They are warts really. However, by an eye is a bit different. I have no experience of this, but was wondering whether - under anaesthetic - they could be frozen off like human warts. However, one has to be so careful around the eyes. If your own vet does not know, get a second opinion. If you are in the UK, perhaps you could contact the veterinary college at Potters Bar.
Get a second opinion from a different vet.
Having never seen anything like that in a horse Im afraid I have no clue - but I agree with Fran - get a second vets opinion - and if he doesnt know bring in a third.
In the event he does go blind or lose the eye - its not a big deal - one of the best jumping ponies I ever owned only had one eye - it never bothered her in the slightest!
I hope he gets better soon
not seeing it i cant tell you for sure, could be Equine Recurrent Uveitis? or maybe Neoplasia of the Eye.i would get a differnt vet to have a look, dont worrie it dosent sound like sarcoids but you never know, they dont normaly get it on there eye also if it was that your vet would defently know there not hard to mistake.
have a look at this site i found this site wile doing equine first aid.
http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index..
You need to check to see if it is summer sore.
Summer sore is where flies lay their eggs in the eye under the skin tissue in the eye.
Able to treat it, the vet will surgically remove the eggs by placing the horse on sedation. Then treat with medications.
My gelding had summer sore twice since he won't keep his fly mask on.
Your vet should be running test and having a second opinion from another vet as well.
I'm a vet. It is impossible to make a diagnosis unless you see such a lesion. I'm not sure from your description if this lesion is on the eyeball or the eyelid or what size it is. Sarcoid was the first thing that came to my mind but it could be lots of other things.
In the case of unusual lesions like this one I would want further tests to be done - smears, biopsies etc.
If your vet cant make a diagnosis and you are still concerned ask for a referral. If it is on the eyeball ask your vet for a referral to a veterinary opthalmologist. If it is on the skin/eyelid you need a veterinary dermatologist. There are plenty of specialists all over the UK - in the vet schools, private practice etc.
If you have any trouble finding one contact the Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons or check out the website www.rcvs.org.uk
My horse has dark thick urine and I am worried! :0(?
I have only had him for a month, so I will give you a bit of info. First off I am going to be calling the vet in the morning ASAP, so this is just a disscussion to prepare me with questions to ask the vet when they arrive in the AM. I am guessing they will do a blood test and urine analisis to check for kidney issues and things. There is a chance that he might just be dehydrated as he is acting wierd about drinking water from the trough and he will dring two buckets full of water when I fill them in his stall, which is what I have been doing to be on the safe. (The barn manager said she has seen him drink from the main trough, but I have yet to see him do it) He has been urinating frequently, and it is small amounts and thick like. But he is otherwise happy and alert. I am so worried! Any advice on what to do/preperation for the arrival of the vet? (This is my first horse and he was a surprise gift, so he didn't have a vet check prior to getting him)
Answers:
first off you say his urine is dark but what color, yellow, redish, yellow green, ect,
does it have a strong smell and if so what is it like, ammona, dead meat, ect
If it is a white yellow colar this is a sign of infection and the vet will give him a shot of pinacellion or better yet L.A.200
if it is dark yellow or ornge color I would think it were dehydration, and would add salt to his feed and cut out the oats and sweet feed of he is getting any.
Run your hand along his back on eather side of his spine just before the rear hips, you are feeling for heat. if you find this area to be hot you have a horse that has a keddny problem, this could be from a infection or it could be the alfalfa he is getting is to hot for him and needs to be put on grass hay or burmuda pellets.
Your vet should be able to tell you if you have hot keddneys and what will cause this, but have him/her show you how to check for this and them check him for this often,
if you spend a lot of time rubbing your horse down with your hands you will learn what the normal hot spots are and were they are not, just takes a lot of time to learn,
I don't think it's normal..
i own horses never had this problem my suggestion is to keep giving him water sometimes they wont eat or drink in front of you there weird like that sounds like a infection in his urinary tract but im not a vet just be there with him when the vet comes keep him calm by talking to him but stay out of the vets way another thing depending on some vets they dont make house calls you could call the vet now they have emergency answering service that may ease your mind till morning good luck i pray hes ok
I would imagine that your Horse has an infection which your Vet shall be able to pick up quickly with a few checks We have had horses for over 20 years now and have had them with urinary infections wait until your vet check in your am I hope all is O.K. good riding
Had he been ridden hard before this showed up..? Have you logged the times you have refilled his water, with the amounts.
What do you mean by "dark" , drk yellow,, brown,, reddish,?
maybe he has a kidney or some kind of digestive problem or maybe even a tumor or something in there.a horse at my old stable had one and urinated blood sometimes. or it would be red or brown.
Answers:
first off you say his urine is dark but what color, yellow, redish, yellow green, ect,
does it have a strong smell and if so what is it like, ammona, dead meat, ect
If it is a white yellow colar this is a sign of infection and the vet will give him a shot of pinacellion or better yet L.A.200
if it is dark yellow or ornge color I would think it were dehydration, and would add salt to his feed and cut out the oats and sweet feed of he is getting any.
Run your hand along his back on eather side of his spine just before the rear hips, you are feeling for heat. if you find this area to be hot you have a horse that has a keddny problem, this could be from a infection or it could be the alfalfa he is getting is to hot for him and needs to be put on grass hay or burmuda pellets.
Your vet should be able to tell you if you have hot keddneys and what will cause this, but have him/her show you how to check for this and them check him for this often,
if you spend a lot of time rubbing your horse down with your hands you will learn what the normal hot spots are and were they are not, just takes a lot of time to learn,
I don't think it's normal..
i own horses never had this problem my suggestion is to keep giving him water sometimes they wont eat or drink in front of you there weird like that sounds like a infection in his urinary tract but im not a vet just be there with him when the vet comes keep him calm by talking to him but stay out of the vets way another thing depending on some vets they dont make house calls you could call the vet now they have emergency answering service that may ease your mind till morning good luck i pray hes ok
I would imagine that your Horse has an infection which your Vet shall be able to pick up quickly with a few checks We have had horses for over 20 years now and have had them with urinary infections wait until your vet check in your am I hope all is O.K. good riding
Had he been ridden hard before this showed up..? Have you logged the times you have refilled his water, with the amounts.
What do you mean by "dark" , drk yellow,, brown,, reddish,?
maybe he has a kidney or some kind of digestive problem or maybe even a tumor or something in there.a horse at my old stable had one and urinated blood sometimes. or it would be red or brown.
My horse has been trained to neckrein the barrel pattern. How can i teach him to direct rein the pattern?
He can get a pretty fast run neck reining. So should i just stick to neck reining? Would i get a faster run if he direct reined the pattern?
Answers:
It is good to direct rein your horse in training, as horses that are solely neck reined tend to get stiff, and as has been mentioned, you end up with a horse dropping their shoulder and just generally not being as supple. If your horse has the right foundation, and you continue to excercise the flexibility, I reccommend neck reining your horse when you are in competition.
If you are riding with a curb bit, definitely neck rein your horse. a curb bit - any bit with leverage - is a one handed bit. There are some contemporary "combination" bits that work on both principles, but when in doubt - it is best to stick to the rule.
All that said, if you want to teach your horse to neck rein, you first need to be sure you are in the right bit, so find yourself a snaffle (and not a tom thumb or shanked snaffle - these are actually CURB bits, as they act on leverage. There is no such thing as a shanked snaffle!), a direct-rein-pressure bit. Chances are, your horse was started with one of these, but some people do go straight to a curb, for whatever reason. It is best to start in a pen, because you never know how much control you are going to have when inttroducing a new bit, and also best to start ON THE GROUND. When your horse is comfortable enough with the new bit, making sure it fits properly, and they stop chewing on it, introduce (light) direct rein pressure on one side from the ground. As soon as your horse responds by lightening the pressure - RELEASE it. If your horse responds immediately, chances are they have been through this lesson, and you can mount up and ride in small circles and serpentines, in the pen, at a walk.
Progess at your horse's speed. When your horse responds quickly and fluidly at a walk, move the excercise up to a trot, and so on. Be sure you have stopping power, and that should come from your seat and voice more than from your bit. Also, for safety, practice the one-rein-stop. When you are confident that you are in control, you can move up to a lope, or, if your pen is too small, move out of the pen. Make your excercises interesting by including objects that you are riding around/weaving through/riding over.
If you want more help, you let me know.
I have four horses. One is neck reigned (My horse), and the others are direct reigned.
I find that my horse is much more agile, responsive, fast and willing to please being neck reigned other than my other horses.
Direct reigning also requires a tad bit more effort on the rider's part. You need to be paying attention to what you're running. I highly suggest staying neck reigned.
just one saying for you "IF IT AINT BROKE WHY FIX IT?"
Any horse should be taught how to direct rein for proper suppleness. Should he be taught to direct rein a pattern (?); good question. A horse that does speed events that neck reins will be more likely to throw a shoulder towards a barrel or pole. You can get a quicker cleaner turn if your horse has it's inside shoulder lifted during the turn. Although proper bending during your training time should compensate for not direct reining. Personally I like to neck rein my horses.
keep , him neck reining , he will go faster when he knows what your asking %26 not trying to learn somthing new %26 you wont ruin his mouth by pulling him round the barrels.
It is easier for both of you
May the horse be with you.
I prefer neck reining. The reason is I feel the horse knows I am asking to turn by a touch on the neck. In straight reining I feel I am telling or demanding. That's just my opinion. I have ridden neck rein, 4 reins 2 bits, and straight. I prefer the freedom of neck reining
Ok the way i see this is "if its not broke dont fix it" if hes getting a good time with neck reining thats awesome most horses cant do that. If you think he would get an even better time if you used direct reining then i would teach him. Walk him through the patter a couple times and then start using a direct rein while your still at a walk. Then once he realizes you want him to direct rein and he responds as well as with the neck rein move to a trot repeat and then move to a lope.
Why would you want to direct rein the pattern? It is so much easier to neck rein through the barrel pattern. Plus, if you direct rein %26 get off balance, there is a tendency to move a rein wrong and that could cause a problem. I would never want anything but a neck rein horse for barrels or pole bending.
Answers:
It is good to direct rein your horse in training, as horses that are solely neck reined tend to get stiff, and as has been mentioned, you end up with a horse dropping their shoulder and just generally not being as supple. If your horse has the right foundation, and you continue to excercise the flexibility, I reccommend neck reining your horse when you are in competition.
If you are riding with a curb bit, definitely neck rein your horse. a curb bit - any bit with leverage - is a one handed bit. There are some contemporary "combination" bits that work on both principles, but when in doubt - it is best to stick to the rule.
All that said, if you want to teach your horse to neck rein, you first need to be sure you are in the right bit, so find yourself a snaffle (and not a tom thumb or shanked snaffle - these are actually CURB bits, as they act on leverage. There is no such thing as a shanked snaffle!), a direct-rein-pressure bit. Chances are, your horse was started with one of these, but some people do go straight to a curb, for whatever reason. It is best to start in a pen, because you never know how much control you are going to have when inttroducing a new bit, and also best to start ON THE GROUND. When your horse is comfortable enough with the new bit, making sure it fits properly, and they stop chewing on it, introduce (light) direct rein pressure on one side from the ground. As soon as your horse responds by lightening the pressure - RELEASE it. If your horse responds immediately, chances are they have been through this lesson, and you can mount up and ride in small circles and serpentines, in the pen, at a walk.
Progess at your horse's speed. When your horse responds quickly and fluidly at a walk, move the excercise up to a trot, and so on. Be sure you have stopping power, and that should come from your seat and voice more than from your bit. Also, for safety, practice the one-rein-stop. When you are confident that you are in control, you can move up to a lope, or, if your pen is too small, move out of the pen. Make your excercises interesting by including objects that you are riding around/weaving through/riding over.
If you want more help, you let me know.
I have four horses. One is neck reigned (My horse), and the others are direct reigned.
I find that my horse is much more agile, responsive, fast and willing to please being neck reigned other than my other horses.
Direct reigning also requires a tad bit more effort on the rider's part. You need to be paying attention to what you're running. I highly suggest staying neck reigned.
just one saying for you "IF IT AINT BROKE WHY FIX IT?"
Any horse should be taught how to direct rein for proper suppleness. Should he be taught to direct rein a pattern (?); good question. A horse that does speed events that neck reins will be more likely to throw a shoulder towards a barrel or pole. You can get a quicker cleaner turn if your horse has it's inside shoulder lifted during the turn. Although proper bending during your training time should compensate for not direct reining. Personally I like to neck rein my horses.
keep , him neck reining , he will go faster when he knows what your asking %26 not trying to learn somthing new %26 you wont ruin his mouth by pulling him round the barrels.
It is easier for both of you
May the horse be with you.
I prefer neck reining. The reason is I feel the horse knows I am asking to turn by a touch on the neck. In straight reining I feel I am telling or demanding. That's just my opinion. I have ridden neck rein, 4 reins 2 bits, and straight. I prefer the freedom of neck reining
Ok the way i see this is "if its not broke dont fix it" if hes getting a good time with neck reining thats awesome most horses cant do that. If you think he would get an even better time if you used direct reining then i would teach him. Walk him through the patter a couple times and then start using a direct rein while your still at a walk. Then once he realizes you want him to direct rein and he responds as well as with the neck rein move to a trot repeat and then move to a lope.
Why would you want to direct rein the pattern? It is so much easier to neck rein through the barrel pattern. Plus, if you direct rein %26 get off balance, there is a tendency to move a rein wrong and that could cause a problem. I would never want anything but a neck rein horse for barrels or pole bending.
my horse has been diagnosed with a cortical fracture anyone had to deal with this with theire horse ?
he was diagnosed this week and we have been told to confine him to his stable for 4 months, does anyone have experience of this sort of thing ? how did the horse cope? how did you? what treatment did you have to give if any? did the horse make a full recovery? any info greatfully recieved.
Answers:
I haven't dealt with that specifically, however we had a horse that was kicked and had a displaced fracture of his ulna - shoulder blade. We cross tied him in a stable for 3 months. the 1st month he wasn;t allowed out, 2nd and 3rd months were hand walking - starting at 5 mins once a day and building up to 20 mins 3 times a day, then small yard. This particular horse made a full recovery and has actually raced successfully since - However - it really depends on your horses temperament, there's not a lot of horses that will cope with being confined for such a long time. and if you 'feel sorry' for him and let him out early, there is a very good chance he will re injure the fracture. I would think long and hard about this, firstly for your horses wellbeing, but also ensuring you have the time and the patience to get him through this. It is a long haul, believe me!!
no ive got a motor bike threre much faster.
i agree with shell. It is harder to deal with his emotional well being than it is the actual injury. if he should try to escape or kick or any sudden movement then he can damage himself worse and may have to be put down. that is why it is so hard to heal a broken leg with a horse. cut back on his oats and corn- they produce heat and energy. you may have to keep him lightly sedated for while so that he doesnt try to do anything. even the most calm horse can have trouble coping with being penned up for long periods of time. keep in touch with your vet and have him evalutated frequently. the vet may let you hand walk him beofre the diagnosed time if the horse is healing quicker than expected. ask your vet if there are any feed supplements that you can give him to help speed up the healing process, sometimes there are things available. when you go to hand walk him the first time, put a chain over his nose so that you can control him easier should he start to act up, which he probably will. During stall rest, give him stall toys to play with, especially ones that you can hang from the ceiling. this shoudl alleviate some bordeness. I hope that your horse gets better and heals. best of luck.
there is nothing more i can add, but i will say that being in a stable for 4 months can be boring, so give him lots of toys and things to play with and go talk to him alto and keep him company, letting him out sounds like a good idea but its not! so keep him in his stable till he hes fully recovered.
hope he gets better soon!
nope I have a car
Again I cant add too much to this answer except to say that when my mare was on box rest for 2 months I kept a small pony in the stable next to her for company during the day with and kept stuff like a jolly ball and plenty of mineral licks as well as a steady flow of hay to keep her occupied - also spend lots of time grooming and making a fuss of him - i wish him a speedy recovery and wish you well - horses - they just break your heart!
not come across the injury, but have cared for lots of horses on box rest. try and give him things to keep him entertained.
if you haven't got money to spend on treat balls or boredom breakers, make your own. tie a sweed onto a string and tie it up in his stable away from the wall. you can also try this with carrots and apples.
bear in mind that box rest is quite stressful for a horse, you may notice a change in temperment, he may become bolshy or nippy. so be careful.
all our horses on box rest are put in a stable with rubber matting. they stand on rubber matting during the day and have a bed as well during the night. this minimises mess and saves money and time.
He'll really appreciate lots of grooming and fuss. Hope all goes well. stick in there when things get tuff. it'll be worth it when you get your horse back fit and healthy.
if you want any more help or advise feel free to send me a message. i'll always try and help.
good luck and keep your chin up, your horse needs you now more than ever
sorry no .hope all goes well ./////////////////////
Answers:
I haven't dealt with that specifically, however we had a horse that was kicked and had a displaced fracture of his ulna - shoulder blade. We cross tied him in a stable for 3 months. the 1st month he wasn;t allowed out, 2nd and 3rd months were hand walking - starting at 5 mins once a day and building up to 20 mins 3 times a day, then small yard. This particular horse made a full recovery and has actually raced successfully since - However - it really depends on your horses temperament, there's not a lot of horses that will cope with being confined for such a long time. and if you 'feel sorry' for him and let him out early, there is a very good chance he will re injure the fracture. I would think long and hard about this, firstly for your horses wellbeing, but also ensuring you have the time and the patience to get him through this. It is a long haul, believe me!!
no ive got a motor bike threre much faster.
i agree with shell. It is harder to deal with his emotional well being than it is the actual injury. if he should try to escape or kick or any sudden movement then he can damage himself worse and may have to be put down. that is why it is so hard to heal a broken leg with a horse. cut back on his oats and corn- they produce heat and energy. you may have to keep him lightly sedated for while so that he doesnt try to do anything. even the most calm horse can have trouble coping with being penned up for long periods of time. keep in touch with your vet and have him evalutated frequently. the vet may let you hand walk him beofre the diagnosed time if the horse is healing quicker than expected. ask your vet if there are any feed supplements that you can give him to help speed up the healing process, sometimes there are things available. when you go to hand walk him the first time, put a chain over his nose so that you can control him easier should he start to act up, which he probably will. During stall rest, give him stall toys to play with, especially ones that you can hang from the ceiling. this shoudl alleviate some bordeness. I hope that your horse gets better and heals. best of luck.
there is nothing more i can add, but i will say that being in a stable for 4 months can be boring, so give him lots of toys and things to play with and go talk to him alto and keep him company, letting him out sounds like a good idea but its not! so keep him in his stable till he hes fully recovered.
hope he gets better soon!
nope I have a car
Again I cant add too much to this answer except to say that when my mare was on box rest for 2 months I kept a small pony in the stable next to her for company during the day with and kept stuff like a jolly ball and plenty of mineral licks as well as a steady flow of hay to keep her occupied - also spend lots of time grooming and making a fuss of him - i wish him a speedy recovery and wish you well - horses - they just break your heart!
not come across the injury, but have cared for lots of horses on box rest. try and give him things to keep him entertained.
if you haven't got money to spend on treat balls or boredom breakers, make your own. tie a sweed onto a string and tie it up in his stable away from the wall. you can also try this with carrots and apples.
bear in mind that box rest is quite stressful for a horse, you may notice a change in temperment, he may become bolshy or nippy. so be careful.
all our horses on box rest are put in a stable with rubber matting. they stand on rubber matting during the day and have a bed as well during the night. this minimises mess and saves money and time.
He'll really appreciate lots of grooming and fuss. Hope all goes well. stick in there when things get tuff. it'll be worth it when you get your horse back fit and healthy.
if you want any more help or advise feel free to send me a message. i'll always try and help.
good luck and keep your chin up, your horse needs you now more than ever
sorry no .hope all goes well ./////////////////////
My horse has a wierd bump,,,?
I saw a large bump on my horses fetlock a few days ago. it didnt seem to bother her but today when i rode her she was limping real bad and i stopped. no vets can come out until friday. does anyone have a clue what it is and how i can help?
Answers:
Bad chestnut maybe? Fractured bone, or shin splints can cause bumps as well. Can you be more specific on the bump and location? Bot flies can make bumps, as well as some other parasites.
it can be a really bad fly bite. or maybe your horse accidently hit something and it struck a nerve down there. try to keep cold water or ice on it. that will numb the pain until the vets get there. do it 4 times daily. morning noon and early evening and before you go to bed. keep the ice or water on there about 15 or 30 minutes. try to not ride your horse. if shes limping that will apply more pressure on to the damage nerve if it is a damaged nerve.
Is there any blood , is the fetlock warm and tender ? If it is run cold water on it and put her in stall and keep her quite . Also check the hoof to see if there is a puncher . Don't wrap it till a vet sees it .
Is the bump in the frt or in the back of the ankle. This could be numerous of things. Hard to tell without looking and feeling it. I'd tell you what I would do though while waiting for a vet cause it could be as serious as a fracture. I would keep her in the stall until otherwise noted. I would hose it at least 3x's a day for at least 30 minutes. Anyless then that would just be a waste of time. It takes longer for them to cool down then us so keep that in mind. I would also poultice her. Dry wrap during day hours between hosings and then apply the poultice at night. Does she let you touch the bump? is it sore? is there heat? Better safe then sorry to do all that is above. You can't hurt her doing that but you can hurt her by ignoring it if it turns out to be serious. If it is on the frt of her ankle, I would lead to believe she wrapped it on something. MAybing pawing the fence boards etc. Hope everything turns out well for you and her when the vet comes.
check her frogs to make sure she has not injured it.
Sounds like the same thing my mare had last summer. If it's hot or warm run cold water on it or have her stand in a bucket of ice water. The way to tell if it is warm is to feel the other front leg and compare the tempature. If it's swelled wrap it with a "pillow wrap". Then around the pillow wrap wrap a standing wrap or polo wrap. A standing wrap works best but if you dont have one a polo will do. Have a person that knows how to wrap horses help you. Put her on stall rest. Even if the bump doesn't feel hot put it in a bucket of ice. That will help the swelling go down. Put her on stall rest if nothing else. Running around on it won't help. My horse was lame all last summer with all sorts of different bumps and cuts.
Answers:
Bad chestnut maybe? Fractured bone, or shin splints can cause bumps as well. Can you be more specific on the bump and location? Bot flies can make bumps, as well as some other parasites.
it can be a really bad fly bite. or maybe your horse accidently hit something and it struck a nerve down there. try to keep cold water or ice on it. that will numb the pain until the vets get there. do it 4 times daily. morning noon and early evening and before you go to bed. keep the ice or water on there about 15 or 30 minutes. try to not ride your horse. if shes limping that will apply more pressure on to the damage nerve if it is a damaged nerve.
Is there any blood , is the fetlock warm and tender ? If it is run cold water on it and put her in stall and keep her quite . Also check the hoof to see if there is a puncher . Don't wrap it till a vet sees it .
Is the bump in the frt or in the back of the ankle. This could be numerous of things. Hard to tell without looking and feeling it. I'd tell you what I would do though while waiting for a vet cause it could be as serious as a fracture. I would keep her in the stall until otherwise noted. I would hose it at least 3x's a day for at least 30 minutes. Anyless then that would just be a waste of time. It takes longer for them to cool down then us so keep that in mind. I would also poultice her. Dry wrap during day hours between hosings and then apply the poultice at night. Does she let you touch the bump? is it sore? is there heat? Better safe then sorry to do all that is above. You can't hurt her doing that but you can hurt her by ignoring it if it turns out to be serious. If it is on the frt of her ankle, I would lead to believe she wrapped it on something. MAybing pawing the fence boards etc. Hope everything turns out well for you and her when the vet comes.
check her frogs to make sure she has not injured it.
Sounds like the same thing my mare had last summer. If it's hot or warm run cold water on it or have her stand in a bucket of ice water. The way to tell if it is warm is to feel the other front leg and compare the tempature. If it's swelled wrap it with a "pillow wrap". Then around the pillow wrap wrap a standing wrap or polo wrap. A standing wrap works best but if you dont have one a polo will do. Have a person that knows how to wrap horses help you. Put her on stall rest. Even if the bump doesn't feel hot put it in a bucket of ice. That will help the swelling go down. Put her on stall rest if nothing else. Running around on it won't help. My horse was lame all last summer with all sorts of different bumps and cuts.
my horse has a really tangled main how do i get it un tangled with out hurting my horse?
Answers:
You can buy combs with rotating teeth, that work through tangles more easily and painlessly than combs with fixed teeth. You can get these from your local pet shop. Just start from the bottom and work your way up, holding sections of the hair in your hand so it doesn't pull on your horse's skin. Then in quick movements run the comb through the bottom of the section and as the hair untangles move upwards.
Also for really stubborn knots, split them up with scissors. Just slice through them going with the hair growth and they will break up more easily (I'm a dog groomer and believe me we get some sights in lol) The matts should disintegrate after you do this.
http://www.technogroom.co.uk
If it is really badly matted, you may have no other option but to have his mane hogged (clipped in short) Don't worry, it will grow back!
Good Luck.
use conditioner just like you would on your hair. Start brushing at the bottom and work your way to the top.
why don't you just cut it? it will grow back.L.
Get some Show Sheen and saturate his mane. Let it soak in for a few minutes and work it through. Then carefully untangle it with your fingers.
Then keep his grooming to be done on a more regular basis so it doesn't get so bad next time.
conditioner.
There is a detangler called Cowboy Magic. It works wonderful for getting the knots out of manes and tails. If you go to your local farm store, tack shop they will have it. It comes in a tube or a bigger bottle. It only takes a little bit to start getting the tangles out as it is a little oily, but once it is out it makes the hair really soft and shiney.
Get a bottle of conditioner - and a strong wide tooth comb. Saturate its mane with the conditioner, and then begin using the comb to pick through the hair. Don't start at the top, start about an inch or so from the bottom, and as the bottom of the ends begins to untangle, you can move up another inch or so.. keep doing this throughout it's entire mane. After detangled, rinse out the conditioner.
I would recommend pulling your horse's mane so it is shorter and easier to manage. That way, you won't have this problem again. There are pulling combs for this purpose.
You take a small section of hair, place it under the pulling comb at about the length you want the hair to be, wrap the excess hair around the comb, and give it a tug. The comb cuts through the hair, and it shortens the mane. Look for a pulling comb at statelinetack.com
if its ReALLY bad u can just cut it liek you would for a show, otherwise, showsheen will do the trick
Unlike us, horses have no feeling in their mane. It won't hurt if you pull out a few hairs. The best way to keep the hair loss minimal though is to start from the bottom and work upwards slowly. Once you have the major snarls out, Infusium spray stay-in conditioner (or just mix the regular conditioner with some water in a squirt bottle) will make it much more easy to get out all the small stuff and you'll end up with a great looking shine to the main (and tail if you desire) in the end. I've used that on my horses for about 2 years and have never had any bad tangles since and have gotten several complements on the shine and fullness to their hair. Hope that helps!
i would cut it.
Show Sheen or another silicon based detangler will work. Make sure you saturate the tangles and start untangling from the bottom up. If your horse has dreadlocks instead of tangles, you should probably roach it (cut the entire mane off at the root) just like if you were getting a buzz cut. Actually if your horse has an incredibly thick mane, keeping it roached in the summer might make your horse happier. If you think it looks stupid roached, I can tell you that I have seen world class dressage horses with their manes kept like that.
Start at the end of the hairs and comb down, moving up the hair shaft as the knots come out. You can spray it first with a detangler, a kid's hair detangler works well, and cheaper than those specifically marketed for horses (they contain the same ingredients). You won't hurt your horse either, they don't feel pain when you tug on their manes.
I'd say to roach it (cut it compleatly off) %26 start all over again. If you don't want to do that, you can always buy detangler %26 slowly brush it out.
use a razor sharp knife and draw the edge through the mane in the direction the hair grows.'comb the manewith your fingers as you do thi s and don,toverwork any area. horse breeders and trainers use this technique
DO NOT CUT IT TRUST ME !! there is stuff called cowboy magic and you can go to a store and get a tangle free comb.. start and to bottom of the mane and work your way up.. if you have to cut at the base of the tangle no more than you have to. you don't want to cut the mane.. you the cowboy magic as much as you need and take your time.. the pulling with not hurt your horse he will just agatie him so just take a little at a time.. i've had this tangles when i was a show groomer.. trust me ok.. than when you get it untangled you want to braid it and keep it braided for about 2 day and than comb it out again this causes it not to tangle back so easly.. if you need any more help or questions let me know hope_rising07@hotmail.com
cowboy magic..the ONLY way to go! well, and some patience. good luck.
roche it (shave it all off) or comb through it they can't feel their mane
Conditioner!
First of all, understand that horses' manes are not as sensitive as our hair when brushed. They have much fewer nerve endings where the hair comes out, so you won't hurt him or her unless you pull out tons and tons of hair. Don't be as gentle as you would with a human.
To untangle. First wash it well with good quality shampoo. Then condition it very well, and let it dry. Spray on a whole lot of Showsheen, and start at the very bottom of the mane/tail. Brush just the very ends, then a little higher, moving up slowly. Any large knots gently pull apart with your fingers. Take your time, turn on some music and let your horse relax. Don't let it get so bad again next time.
You're probably not going to believe this, but horses can't feel pain on the crest of the neck, which is where the mane is embedded. They can feel the tug, just not the pain, which I never believed until I looked it up. Cool, huh?
my horse has a biting problem?
Lucky is a sensitive horse %26 spooks easy. I always keep a real close eye on him. he bites often. if I bug him in any little way, he gets pissy and bites me. last time he left a big welt on my hip. what should i do??
Answers:
From some of the trainers that I've watched before, like John Lyons and Clinton Anderson, they teach that when a horse bites, it's to be taken as a sign of aggression or basically a declaration of war. They say that you have a three second window to react to them, any longer and the horse won't understand what he's being reprimanded for, and that the rules are; 1) Strike with whatever you happen to be holding, bare hand if neccessary, anything but a sharp object. 2) Never strike the horse in the face, and 3) Yell loudly, and act aggressively, you are trying your best to make the horse believe he has really messed up this time and that he is about to die. After your three seconds are up, return to acting normal and as if nothing has ever happened. I've tried this on a couple of my young colts before when they started getting nippy and it has worked very well for me, it seems to scare them half to death, but they stopped the nipping at me.
Do you have a real strong bond with her? That helps a lot. Find out where she is sensitave and what ticks her off and work with her on it. Let her know you are in controll.
* NEVER hit a horse in the head!! They will get hand shy
Also put hot sauce on your arm or hand where you think she might bite you. One time getting a hot mouth willmake her think twice.
Shouldn't you take this up with a horse trainer? BTW, I'd hate to see what a hard horse bite would feel like..I used to get all anxious when I'd feed a horse apples.I'd just keep my hand flat and pray it didn't bite me by mistake!!
With horses you have to be the suprior one but any time my horse goes to bite me I flick it on the nose or act like i'm gonna smack him on the nose but make sure he can see my hand and he quits!
well my old horse use to do that alot,
what we did was every time she would get pissy or mad or bite at me i would "pop" her in the face.
there is a good chance that he is probably saddle sore or you have given him to many treats.
thats a really good chance too.
If its because of treats, dont give so many.
and every time you do but its like your food and he tries to reach for it, and you say no, and if he gets mad and tries to bite smack him, because he is in "your space".
whats your space is your and what his is his.
and keep that in mine cuz he is going to try to do it alot and all of the sudden his mood will change.
I've been through it so many times.
but like i said everytime he bites or even nips you need to pop him one in the face.
he will learn.
Hope this Helps
It depends very much on your horse. Some respond extremely well to being bitten back immediately. It's exactly the way it would happen with another horse so they understand why it was done then they can put two and two together. Some horses react badly though. If you think it will work for your horse try to get him as soon as he's pulling back and bite him hard on a soft spot like right between the nostrils. Other than that you have to run the balance between hitting and having him become jumpy whenever you touch him. Good luck
The few times our horses tryed to bite me i have with an open hand and not very hard tapped the top of there nose. just enought to hear it cause then they would know not to start with me, and if that does not work bring him out on a long lead and work him, then he will know you are the boss. It might have a lot to do with the fact that he is a male if he is not geldded, i would look into that.
well my old horse use to do that alot,
what we did was every time she would get pissy or mad or bite at me i would "pop" her in the face.
there is a good chance that he is probably saddle sore or you have given him to many treats.
thats a really good chance too.
If its because of treats, dont give so many.
and every time you do but its like your food and he tries to reach for it, and you say no, and if he gets mad and tries to bite smack him, because he is in "your space".
whats your space is your and what his is his.
and keep that in mine cuz he is going to try to do it alot and all of the sudden his mood will change.
I've been through it so many times.
but like i said everytime he bites or even nips you need to pop him one in the face.
he will learn.
omg I have a nice scar on my face from a biting horse. If he bites you start playing with his mouth and lips until you can tell he is really not liking it he will relieze by biting his mouth will be given alot more attention then he wanted
Unfortunately, some horses are just like that. Have you had the horse a long time? or did you get him from somewhere else? Sometimes horses are taught bad manners, sometimes it comes from the fact that they've been abused at some point in their lives.
When i was 13 my parents bought me a Thoroughbred, he'd been through many homes, originally starting out in racing. Man, he was a MEAN sod, but to ride he was an absolute dream. In the stable if you threatened him in anyway, or even vocally reprimanded him he'd go for you like he was goin to take your head off. It transpires, after i dug a bit into his history, that he'd been badly abused as a racehorse and in his first home off the track.
The best way to deal with a horse like this is to just ignore it, he cant help the way he is, and all you can do is love him to the best of your ability. I'm not trying to be negative, but it's just a fact.
Anyway, Good luck, and happy riding :)
I alway suggest the natural way first of getting your horses respect yadda yadda, look up some methods used by Patt Parelli.
but if you hit a brick wall and are stuck for ideas well then use the following method tried and tested has work 100% of the time in 10 horses , who no matter what you did were determind to bite you when you werent looking!
I have a method to stop horses biting and should be used as a last resort..
Works best for horses that bite when being saddled up.
Boil and cook 5-7 good sized whole potatos , take them out when you go to saddle your horse ( make sure you wear gloves so you dont burn yourself) and every time the horse goes to bite you let him bite the extremely hot potato!
he wil stop very quickly and hes is bringing the pain on himself , its not like your belting him for biting you , hes biting you and hurting himself!
Hope this helps you.
Answers:
From some of the trainers that I've watched before, like John Lyons and Clinton Anderson, they teach that when a horse bites, it's to be taken as a sign of aggression or basically a declaration of war. They say that you have a three second window to react to them, any longer and the horse won't understand what he's being reprimanded for, and that the rules are; 1) Strike with whatever you happen to be holding, bare hand if neccessary, anything but a sharp object. 2) Never strike the horse in the face, and 3) Yell loudly, and act aggressively, you are trying your best to make the horse believe he has really messed up this time and that he is about to die. After your three seconds are up, return to acting normal and as if nothing has ever happened. I've tried this on a couple of my young colts before when they started getting nippy and it has worked very well for me, it seems to scare them half to death, but they stopped the nipping at me.
Do you have a real strong bond with her? That helps a lot. Find out where she is sensitave and what ticks her off and work with her on it. Let her know you are in controll.
* NEVER hit a horse in the head!! They will get hand shy
Also put hot sauce on your arm or hand where you think she might bite you. One time getting a hot mouth willmake her think twice.
Shouldn't you take this up with a horse trainer? BTW, I'd hate to see what a hard horse bite would feel like..I used to get all anxious when I'd feed a horse apples.I'd just keep my hand flat and pray it didn't bite me by mistake!!
With horses you have to be the suprior one but any time my horse goes to bite me I flick it on the nose or act like i'm gonna smack him on the nose but make sure he can see my hand and he quits!
well my old horse use to do that alot,
what we did was every time she would get pissy or mad or bite at me i would "pop" her in the face.
there is a good chance that he is probably saddle sore or you have given him to many treats.
thats a really good chance too.
If its because of treats, dont give so many.
and every time you do but its like your food and he tries to reach for it, and you say no, and if he gets mad and tries to bite smack him, because he is in "your space".
whats your space is your and what his is his.
and keep that in mine cuz he is going to try to do it alot and all of the sudden his mood will change.
I've been through it so many times.
but like i said everytime he bites or even nips you need to pop him one in the face.
he will learn.
Hope this Helps
It depends very much on your horse. Some respond extremely well to being bitten back immediately. It's exactly the way it would happen with another horse so they understand why it was done then they can put two and two together. Some horses react badly though. If you think it will work for your horse try to get him as soon as he's pulling back and bite him hard on a soft spot like right between the nostrils. Other than that you have to run the balance between hitting and having him become jumpy whenever you touch him. Good luck
The few times our horses tryed to bite me i have with an open hand and not very hard tapped the top of there nose. just enought to hear it cause then they would know not to start with me, and if that does not work bring him out on a long lead and work him, then he will know you are the boss. It might have a lot to do with the fact that he is a male if he is not geldded, i would look into that.
well my old horse use to do that alot,
what we did was every time she would get pissy or mad or bite at me i would "pop" her in the face.
there is a good chance that he is probably saddle sore or you have given him to many treats.
thats a really good chance too.
If its because of treats, dont give so many.
and every time you do but its like your food and he tries to reach for it, and you say no, and if he gets mad and tries to bite smack him, because he is in "your space".
whats your space is your and what his is his.
and keep that in mine cuz he is going to try to do it alot and all of the sudden his mood will change.
I've been through it so many times.
but like i said everytime he bites or even nips you need to pop him one in the face.
he will learn.
omg I have a nice scar on my face from a biting horse. If he bites you start playing with his mouth and lips until you can tell he is really not liking it he will relieze by biting his mouth will be given alot more attention then he wanted
Unfortunately, some horses are just like that. Have you had the horse a long time? or did you get him from somewhere else? Sometimes horses are taught bad manners, sometimes it comes from the fact that they've been abused at some point in their lives.
When i was 13 my parents bought me a Thoroughbred, he'd been through many homes, originally starting out in racing. Man, he was a MEAN sod, but to ride he was an absolute dream. In the stable if you threatened him in anyway, or even vocally reprimanded him he'd go for you like he was goin to take your head off. It transpires, after i dug a bit into his history, that he'd been badly abused as a racehorse and in his first home off the track.
The best way to deal with a horse like this is to just ignore it, he cant help the way he is, and all you can do is love him to the best of your ability. I'm not trying to be negative, but it's just a fact.
Anyway, Good luck, and happy riding :)
I alway suggest the natural way first of getting your horses respect yadda yadda, look up some methods used by Patt Parelli.
but if you hit a brick wall and are stuck for ideas well then use the following method tried and tested has work 100% of the time in 10 horses , who no matter what you did were determind to bite you when you werent looking!
I have a method to stop horses biting and should be used as a last resort..
Works best for horses that bite when being saddled up.
Boil and cook 5-7 good sized whole potatos , take them out when you go to saddle your horse ( make sure you wear gloves so you dont burn yourself) and every time the horse goes to bite you let him bite the extremely hot potato!
he wil stop very quickly and hes is bringing the pain on himself , its not like your belting him for biting you , hes biting you and hurting himself!
Hope this helps you.
My horse has a bad habit of swinging her head around.?
My horse has a bad habit of swinging her head around when we are petting her. She is a great horse %26 is very gentile. One time she swong her head %26 hit me in the mouth %26 allmost knoked me out. How do I brake her of this habit?
Answers:
Maybe you are standing where she cannot see you very well. Being that you are the human and she is the horse, it is your responsibility to make sure that you do not put yourself in a position to get hurt.
If you are convinced that it is a habit, hold a crop in your hand with the butt end towards her head. When she swings her head around let HER bump her head (make sure it's not by her eye) into the crop end. DO NOT hit her with or move the crop. Hold it stationary.
Act like you have no idea what happened when she bumps into it. You don't want her thinking that you are disciplining her. Simply that if she swings her head around she gets an uncomfortable result. If you do it right she will not like the feeling and it will help curb the bad habit. I think you need to also try to figure out WHY she is swinging her head around.
sorry to hear that you need to tighten the rains a bit
Is she doing it with pinned ears, a snake-neck gesture, or any other signs of annoyance? I know some thinner skinned horses don't enjoy rough brushing. .it might be uncomforable for her. Why not try super-gentle brushing with only a soft bristle brush and see if she acts any differently.
To teach her better behavior, I would not resort to hitting her or anything negative. I really like Clicker Training. You can teach her in a positive way to stand quietly and discourage bad habits. I recommend the book "clicker train your horse" by Kurland.
Let her know you are buy her talk to her. She may not see you as you may be in a blind spot for her. Try putting a halter on her and having some one hold her head steady and pet her. She should get used to someone being by her head.
Try Holding Her Head Down.
have a bridel on her and when she swings her head pull the bridel and tell her to stop
She may just be trying to rub on you if her face is itchy. Does it happen more when you take the bridle off or if she's sweaty? She doesn't know the power she has. I would have a halter on her while petting, that way you can control her head. It's probably a habit she's formed, you just need to break her of it.
she is probably head-shy. my 8-year old QH mare does this sometimes. is she touchy about her ears or around her eyes? you could just be bothering her and she wants you to stop. when she is eating, just run your hand from the withers, down her neck, all the way to her poll. slowly run your fingers up and down her ears. try to get to where you can fold them around and touch them without her going psycho. my home email is williamson7683@verizon.net if you have any other questions.
moniter her and see if she does it at any other time. she may have a sore back or teeth problems. does she eat her feed okay? is she comfortable when you put her halter or bridle on? she may be headshy and this needs a lot of time and patience. Speak gently and quietly to her and dont rush her into anything. Explore all options as it may not be that straight forward.
You have to stand in her direct line of sight and let her know who the boss is..what happens is horses do not realize that we are not as big as they are and they want to play with you.
If its an aggressive act then again you have to show her who is boss, she needs to know that you are incharge, how ever you (if you did yourself) halter broke her use that method again, she will get it.
one other option is to catch her with in seconds of her doing this and react in an aggressive manner..tap on the nose or yelling tell her to stop.she'll get the idea.
Where are you petting her? If you are petting her head, maybe she doesnt like it. I am sure she means no harm. She is simply reacting to a situation she is uncomfortable with. Try allowing her to approach your hand for the pet. Also, if it is that she is bored with her life or a little bossy, Try working with her on the ground. Lead her around an indoor arena (So no tempting grass causes aproblem) stand on her left side and hold your right hand close to the her halter on the lead rope. Don't jerk her head around but keep her attention focused to you. Practice stopping and standing and moving forward on your comands. This may not seem related but she needs a confident leader. Horses sometimes need time out of the stall and this along with horse time in the pasture may make her less of a head swinger. Also, never leave your gaurd down around a horses head, it is alot more powerful than yours!
well alot of horses do that. theres probably something wrong that your horse doesn't like you petting him. If your horse is still green, maybe thats why write back and tell me more about your horse like how old he is breed and so on .
Answers:
Maybe you are standing where she cannot see you very well. Being that you are the human and she is the horse, it is your responsibility to make sure that you do not put yourself in a position to get hurt.
If you are convinced that it is a habit, hold a crop in your hand with the butt end towards her head. When she swings her head around let HER bump her head (make sure it's not by her eye) into the crop end. DO NOT hit her with or move the crop. Hold it stationary.
Act like you have no idea what happened when she bumps into it. You don't want her thinking that you are disciplining her. Simply that if she swings her head around she gets an uncomfortable result. If you do it right she will not like the feeling and it will help curb the bad habit. I think you need to also try to figure out WHY she is swinging her head around.
sorry to hear that you need to tighten the rains a bit
Is she doing it with pinned ears, a snake-neck gesture, or any other signs of annoyance? I know some thinner skinned horses don't enjoy rough brushing. .it might be uncomforable for her. Why not try super-gentle brushing with only a soft bristle brush and see if she acts any differently.
To teach her better behavior, I would not resort to hitting her or anything negative. I really like Clicker Training. You can teach her in a positive way to stand quietly and discourage bad habits. I recommend the book "clicker train your horse" by Kurland.
Let her know you are buy her talk to her. She may not see you as you may be in a blind spot for her. Try putting a halter on her and having some one hold her head steady and pet her. She should get used to someone being by her head.
Try Holding Her Head Down.
have a bridel on her and when she swings her head pull the bridel and tell her to stop
She may just be trying to rub on you if her face is itchy. Does it happen more when you take the bridle off or if she's sweaty? She doesn't know the power she has. I would have a halter on her while petting, that way you can control her head. It's probably a habit she's formed, you just need to break her of it.
she is probably head-shy. my 8-year old QH mare does this sometimes. is she touchy about her ears or around her eyes? you could just be bothering her and she wants you to stop. when she is eating, just run your hand from the withers, down her neck, all the way to her poll. slowly run your fingers up and down her ears. try to get to where you can fold them around and touch them without her going psycho. my home email is williamson7683@verizon.net if you have any other questions.
moniter her and see if she does it at any other time. she may have a sore back or teeth problems. does she eat her feed okay? is she comfortable when you put her halter or bridle on? she may be headshy and this needs a lot of time and patience. Speak gently and quietly to her and dont rush her into anything. Explore all options as it may not be that straight forward.
You have to stand in her direct line of sight and let her know who the boss is..what happens is horses do not realize that we are not as big as they are and they want to play with you.
If its an aggressive act then again you have to show her who is boss, she needs to know that you are incharge, how ever you (if you did yourself) halter broke her use that method again, she will get it.
one other option is to catch her with in seconds of her doing this and react in an aggressive manner..tap on the nose or yelling tell her to stop.she'll get the idea.
Where are you petting her? If you are petting her head, maybe she doesnt like it. I am sure she means no harm. She is simply reacting to a situation she is uncomfortable with. Try allowing her to approach your hand for the pet. Also, if it is that she is bored with her life or a little bossy, Try working with her on the ground. Lead her around an indoor arena (So no tempting grass causes aproblem) stand on her left side and hold your right hand close to the her halter on the lead rope. Don't jerk her head around but keep her attention focused to you. Practice stopping and standing and moving forward on your comands. This may not seem related but she needs a confident leader. Horses sometimes need time out of the stall and this along with horse time in the pasture may make her less of a head swinger. Also, never leave your gaurd down around a horses head, it is alot more powerful than yours!
well alot of horses do that. theres probably something wrong that your horse doesn't like you petting him. If your horse is still green, maybe thats why write back and tell me more about your horse like how old he is breed and so on .
My horse foundered and I need to know if there are any anti-grazing muzzles people liked, and use.?
I have seen a few grazzing muzzles, and one limits the grass intake, and there is another that doesn't allow any grass intake. I'd like to not have her eat at all.
She will be getting plenty of food inside when they are not out.
Any suggestions would be nice.
Thanks
Answers:
We've used grazing muzzles reasonably successfully- I've used similar to this one here: http://www.smartpakequine.com/productcla.
I'm yet to see any animal get food into that, but the hole at the bottom lets them drink quite comfortably. Only problem is that some really resent it and will rub against a fence/tree/etc. until they manage to get it off.
Is there any other way that you can give her her bute, other than mixing it with grain? Seeing as though she's at high risk of foundering again due to the Cushings, you really shouldn't be giving her any grain/bread/other highly digestible carbs if you can avoid it. If you're using powder, have you tried mixing it with a little molasses (just enough to form soft balls- most will eat it quite happily)? Or else mix it up into a paste with some molasses water and give it to her in a syringe like you would worm her.
Are you just feeding her grass hay when she's inside? Unless she's being ridden (guessing she's not, or not much, given the Cushings) that should be fine for her in terms of energy.
Other thing- as you may know, Cushings causes the skin to atrophy with time. This can mean that if there's any rotatation or even sinking of the pedal bone, they seem (in my experience) to be more prone to having the bone come through the sole of the hoof. If she's just stabled and in a paddock then she should be okay, but be really careful with her if she's ever out on rough or stony ground. There are various shoes %26 other 'devices' around (that can be held on with bandages if she's not shod) that can help to protect feet like these- may be worth a call to your farrier or vet.
Hope that's of some help
Best Answer - Chosen By Voters
I have had a few--you are on the right track in her care--having her feet trimmed regularly will help --the thing that will flair foundering the quickest is too much spring grass--if you have her out and the grass is lush and green you should put her where you can feed her grass hay --cut back on her grain --if she has only foundered once--she will be ok to ride unless she is retired as my horses are--
Founder is due to the horses inability to rid themselves of unused proteins so they build up and become toxic--unfortunately it attacks the hooves--you can tell in some horses that they are getting to the point of founder if the top line of their necks get rock hard ((the crest of their neck)) its a warning sign--Good luck :-)
I found this, hope it helps! Good luck with your horse!
statelinetack.com sells alot of them.
My boy foundered, due to his grass intake.
We ploughed up the field to keep him off grass and only on what we gave him. I would suggest turning her out in a field that has been ploughed so there is no grass at all. It worked well for us and it was convienent. Maybe it could help you out.
She will be getting plenty of food inside when they are not out.
Any suggestions would be nice.
Thanks
Answers:
We've used grazing muzzles reasonably successfully- I've used similar to this one here: http://www.smartpakequine.com/productcla.
I'm yet to see any animal get food into that, but the hole at the bottom lets them drink quite comfortably. Only problem is that some really resent it and will rub against a fence/tree/etc. until they manage to get it off.
Is there any other way that you can give her her bute, other than mixing it with grain? Seeing as though she's at high risk of foundering again due to the Cushings, you really shouldn't be giving her any grain/bread/other highly digestible carbs if you can avoid it. If you're using powder, have you tried mixing it with a little molasses (just enough to form soft balls- most will eat it quite happily)? Or else mix it up into a paste with some molasses water and give it to her in a syringe like you would worm her.
Are you just feeding her grass hay when she's inside? Unless she's being ridden (guessing she's not, or not much, given the Cushings) that should be fine for her in terms of energy.
Other thing- as you may know, Cushings causes the skin to atrophy with time. This can mean that if there's any rotatation or even sinking of the pedal bone, they seem (in my experience) to be more prone to having the bone come through the sole of the hoof. If she's just stabled and in a paddock then she should be okay, but be really careful with her if she's ever out on rough or stony ground. There are various shoes %26 other 'devices' around (that can be held on with bandages if she's not shod) that can help to protect feet like these- may be worth a call to your farrier or vet.
Hope that's of some help
Best Answer - Chosen By Voters
I have had a few--you are on the right track in her care--having her feet trimmed regularly will help --the thing that will flair foundering the quickest is too much spring grass--if you have her out and the grass is lush and green you should put her where you can feed her grass hay --cut back on her grain --if she has only foundered once--she will be ok to ride unless she is retired as my horses are--
Founder is due to the horses inability to rid themselves of unused proteins so they build up and become toxic--unfortunately it attacks the hooves--you can tell in some horses that they are getting to the point of founder if the top line of their necks get rock hard ((the crest of their neck)) its a warning sign--Good luck :-)
I found this, hope it helps! Good luck with your horse!
statelinetack.com sells alot of them.
My boy foundered, due to his grass intake.
We ploughed up the field to keep him off grass and only on what we gave him. I would suggest turning her out in a field that has been ploughed so there is no grass at all. It worked well for us and it was convienent. Maybe it could help you out.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)